Observations of a Baha'i Traveller
By Mason Remey
OCR of the scans on Hnet
Title
OBSERVATIONS
OFA
BAHAI TRAVELLER
1908
PREFACE
To those interested in the Bahai Movement.
Acting on the suggestion of Abdul-Baha, I have written the following account of travels made last summer among some Bahais of the Orient.
In the month of June and again in August of last year I visited the city of Acre, in Syria, and there saw and talked with the leader of the Bahai Movement, Abdul-Baha. Through these accompanying pages I hope to share with you some of that spirit which one receives from him, and through contact with his fol lowers.
CHARLES MASON REMn',
Washington, D. C.
19th June, I9og.
INTRODUCTION
Asia, the continent from which the Caucas ian peoples swept westward to rule the world, has in like manner been the land from whence has come spiritual sustenance for mankind his religion. In her mountains, the prophets communed with God and revealed His hf e giving Word; and from her shores their fol lowers embarked to carry the messages of Truth to the nations of the West.
Civilization is the outward expression of the inner or spiritual condition of a people. The civilization of the West is in reality the fruit of the religion, which it has received from the East. The Orient is tile mother, who has sent forth a man child, which is the Occident. Now that mother has grown old. She has been plundered and pillaged by her offspring of the West, and is helpless. The time is at hand for the Occident to go to her help, and in the spirit of love serve her and lift her from her present condition. By so doing the West will gain abundantly gain through giving as well as receiving, for the Orient has much to give to the West.
As with woman, the strength of the Orient manifests itself through those soul character istics that are subjective rather than object ive; while, on the other band, as with man, the strength of the Occident manifests itself through those soul characteristics that are ob jective rather than subjective.
3
The man who seeks masculine virtue in wo man is quite as sure to be disappointed as is the Occidental who visits the Orient with the expectation of there finding people fashioned after the sthndard of the West. The wise man seeks in woman those feminine virtues wherein she is strong and, by union with her, finds a balance which his masculine nature needs. In this manner is it neccssary that the Occident and Orient should come together? Where the one is strong, the other is weak; and where the one is weak, the other is strong. Through this unity, the highest and most noble in each is forthcoming.
The western nations that have gone into the Orient have gone to conquer. They have suc
ceeded in not won strangers in a strange land. There has no union between them an.d the Oriental pies, and, consequently, but little lasting has come to either from their meeting.
Woman may be subjugated by man, but, less she is won by love, this subjugation rows her character and life develop everything save her be
nature. ition 0
today. have a c
for the f the W
less a
tends to nd nobler Orient of in respect
neverthe chasm separates the two an be bridged only through awak love for the other. As man's
s an epoch in the
development of his character and opens before him a field of hitherto unknown possibilities,
subjugating the people, but they havei them. They have always remained
t
been peo good
fin nar
. .
This is the cond While her people superior power o great
and tter a f the
erta
est,
abyss which can ening in each a love-union with
woman mark
4
so the uniting of the Occident with the Orient will be productive of the greatest good to the world.
This unity of all peoples, East and \Vest, is
the object and This movement like the other p was revealed by its way westwa circle the earth. itual power, its
aim of The Bahai Teaching. had its birth in the East and, bases of the One Truth, which all the prophets, it has worked rd until now its adherents en- Under its invigorating spir followers in the Orient are
awakening to and seeking the advantages of western civilization and are helping conditions there by ministering physically, morally and spiritually to the people about them; while in the Occident, the same force is giving people calmness, assurance, and poise of soul, which the strenuousness of western Ffe has all but destroyed.
Under
leaders,
the guidance of its three inspired The Bab, who was the forerunner and Point of this revelation, Baha'o was the revealer of The Word, and a, who is the expounder of The Bahai Movement is breaking down s between the various religious sys
from which will evolve civil
the First 'llah, who Abdu Word, the the barrier tems, and, uniting all
through its human elemen
sal brotherhood that is expand until it fills th which was foretold by of the past. It is the Kingdom among men,
vital divine power, is ts in one great univer destined to grow and e world. This is that the prophets and seers establishment of God's and it is the nucleus the great universal
5
NARRATIVE
For some time prior to leaving America for the East, in April, 19o8, I had been in corre spondence with Mr. Sydney Sprague in the hope that we would be able to arrange to make to gether a trip into Turkestan and Persia. It was not, however, until our meeting in Lon don early in the following month that our plan of travel was finally mapped out and decided upon.
Mr.
gaged
at that was ar about
planned
route to Stuttgart, gart and centers.
I must
not omit a paragraph regarding the
erature, as well as by organizing
teaching and study and like work. enthusiastic believer was erecting a
6
Sprague had, for several years, been en- in the Bahai work in London and was, moment, unable to leave England, so it ranged that we should meet in Vienna three weeks later, from whence we to travel eastward. Mr. Sprague's Vienna lay through Brussels and while mine was via Paris, Stutt Munich, which places are all Bahai
S
Bahai work now being carried on in Stuttgart. Eight months previous to the visit of which I write I spent a few days there where then was but a handful of Bahais. This time, however, I found an organized Assembly, with many people busily engaged in serving The Cause by translating and publishing Bahai lit-
meetings for
One very
building in
home and a ways I saw friends had working out vening eight Washington had and the fruits of friends were easi assembly. When and the ana his
Abdul-Baha, which opened visit Acre on my way out though I had hoped to be visit, yet, on account of the b then rife throughout had no anticipation of r Despite the abrupt change thing arranged itself quite
the way for me to to the East. Al able to make this governmental trou Turkish domains, I ealizing my desire. in our plans, every- well. My going to
whi bly
ch ro
he om,
center for the Bahais. the firmness with wh grasped
its princ months
was making provision for an assern which, when completed, would be a In many
ich these
the teachings and were iples. During the inter-
Miss Alma Knobloch of been teaching in Stuttgart, her efforts and those of her seen in the work of that
the organs of the body are performing each its own body is vigorous and strong. ssemb of friends in which own part. As individuals sarily attract much attention, the assembly as a whole is
ces of
all working, function, then So it is with each is doing they do not ne yet the power strongly felt.
On the eve of our planned departure from Vienna, a tablet (letter) was received from
Syria gave Mr. Sprague a much desired oppor tunity to visit a brother Bahai iii Constantino ple. Traveling leisurely by steamer down the Danube and through the Black Sea he reached Constantinople and completed a visit there of
7
three weeks by the time I joined him. In the mean time my route took me the length of Italy, through Greece and down into Egypt before I reached Syria.
who are spiritual ceived me with open known them throu Arturo Reghini, one leading spirit of the Piazzale Donatello, F past year, delivered a the Bahai Movement thinking people who a day spiritual condition many of these the Ba strongly. That which attractive in this philo kindly spirit which the
to write of some Florence, friends
seekers and who re arms, although I had only gh correspondence. Sr. of the founders, and the Biblioteca Filosofica, lorence, had, during the course of lectures upon These were attended by re awake to the present s and necessities, and to hai Movement appealed was most noticeable and sophical center was the people bore towards all
After brief meetings with the Bahais in Alexandria and Port Said, I took steamer from the latter port to Haifa, where I landed after a voyage of twenty-four hours. Many Bahai pil grims to the Holy Land have described Haifa and Mount Carmel, yet each takes away with him impressions impossible to put into words. This mountain, in which lived the prophet Elijah, and from Old Testament days consid ered the Lord's own ground, has, during the
8
I must pause a moment friends whom I met in
religious movements, and this in character.
was truly Bahai
past half century, again been the center of spiritual activities, the glad tidings of which are now being heralded the world around.
The foreshadowing of this latter-day move- merit we see in the expectant veneration with which this spot is held by Christians, Jews, and Moslems. All three reverence its holy places, for in the sacred writings of each are many prophecies regarding the triumphal coming of the Messiah, and of the transformation of this land and her people from sterility and poverty to fertility and power. Here are several relig ious communities, monasteries and convents, as well as the German Temple Colony situated on the lower slope of the mountain. This latter was founded in the sixties under a religious enthusiasm which had its birth in Wurttem berg.
Off to the north of Mount Carmel, across the Bay of Haifa, is the town of Acre. Built on a rock, surrounded on three sides by the sea, the fourth by a moat and the land, she appears to float on the water. From without, her white fortifications, domes, and turrets, beneath a brilliant sun, with their high lights and black shadows, are strikingly symbolic of the spirit ual conditions of light and darkness which have existed within those prison walls. Here, for years, under conditions almost too dread ful to be described, was confined the world's greatest teacher, Baha'o'llah. He, with about seventy followers, storm-tossed exiles, after years of persecution for His faith, was finally brought in captivity to the dungeon of Acre,
9
within whose darkened recesses languished many a political prisoner, thief and murderer.
It is amid the particles of matter, torn by the forces of the elements from the mountain side and carried down into the valley, that seeds
spiritual his- ruin brought
d its growth blackest darkness has light. This is strik while in Acre. That loodiest combats of the modern times, of the many times leveled to a penal colony, under merit 61 Turkey that
Napoleonic war in Syria the ground, and, finally, the late despotic govern this should be the place from which should go
forth to the world the great Spiritual Message of Peace, uniting men of all nations and races in brotherly love is, indeed, in accordance with the marvelous workings of God, view them in the past and present.
During the winter, previous to the which I write, it was generally known the Bahais that Abdul-Baha and the f Acre were in trouble, while but few, i us in the West realized how serious condition there. The cause of this
general corruption of the old regime of Turkish government, that reached its climax just before the declaration of a constitutional form of government in Constantinople, in the summer of 1908. The Bahais in and about Acre were exiles in a foreign land, and, being with Jo
grow
and bring forth their fruits.
find root, In like manner do we see, in the
tory of the world, that, amid the about by man, spirituality has ha and fruition out of the come the most brilliant ingly brought to one Acre, the scene of tile b Crusades, and, in more
aswe
visit of amongst riends in f any, of was the was the
out temporal power of protection, were consid ered as legitimate plunder by certain officials then in power. Abdul-Baha told me that he had received threatening messages from, a very high official, temporally over him, to which he had replied, saying that he was Abdul-Baha (the servant of God), that were that official to exalt him, he would still be Abdul-Baha, were he to oppress him he would still be Abdul Baha, and, were he to kill him, yet would his station ever be the same, Abdul-Baha.
During the five days I waited in Haifa, be fore it was possible to proceed to Acre, the troublous condition was to some extent amel iorated by the liberating from the prison of Acre of four recent converts to the faith, who had, for several months, been confined there because of their allegiance to The Cause. About this time a special guard, placed before the house of Abdul-Baha to watch its inmates, was, by order of the governor, removed, so matters be gan to take on a less troubled aspect.
Notwithstanding these changes for the better, I had to be very careful in entering and leav ing the city of Acre. Abdul-Baha's house be ing watched by spies, I did not go there, but spent the two days and two nights of my visit within the confines of the house of Aga Seyed Taghi Afnan, the venerable Bahai under whose direction the arrangements for the building of the Mashrak-E1-Azcar in Eshkha bad were made and executed. Here our teacher, Abdul-Baha, came to see me twice each day. Despite the agitated conditions for his followers had been almost panic-stricken
U
Abdul-Baha was calm and evidently very happy. The strain of many years of trouble had left its imprint upon the physical man, but his soul, which is so emancipated, was brim ming over with the love and joy of the Lord.
i could not help comparing this visit to Abdul-Baha with my first visit with him, to gether with several believers late in the winter of igoi, at which time he was comparatively free from worldly troubles, being allowed to reside temporarily in Haifa. Our party of nine American and European pilgrims was in his house. rrhdn the approach of a Bahai was an easy matter: we went about the town mingling freely with people, and meeting them socially as one would have done in any place. But as I recall those days I remember that our leader often looked distressed. Then. The Cause in the West was not united and as strong as it is now. While many were attracted and the movement was growing, yet the believers were in danger. They were as young trees envel oped by the blast of the winter's gale. This Abdul-Baha knew and realized, while we did not, and, notwithstanding his own ease, it weighed upon him. Now all was reversed. He was in trouble but those over whom he had so diligently watched and prayed had, through his labor and sacrifices, grown strong in spirit and were uniting in serving humanity as he by his example had taught them to do. Now the unity and the steadfastness of the Bahais being accomplished, his own present troubles were as naught.
Abdul-Baha spoke at some length regarding
12
the uniting of the people of the West with those of the East their spiritual unity which is bringing about the regeneration of mankind. Now we have in the world of man all the ele ments for the progress of the people save the one necessary element the element of love by which all must be brought together and assimi lated into one. The heart of the world is tired and sick because it needs the balm of the love of God. This is what Baha'o'l brought into the world the power of uniting all in one
and this is what Abdul-Baha, by his life and teaching, is exemplifying and literally infusing into souls.
Abclul-Baha is anxious that in every possible way the believers in the East and West should unite; that communication should increase and that an interchange of ideas should ensue in order that all may profit thereby and be helped. Practically the only instruction which he gave me regarding my trip to Persia and Turkestan was that I should mingle freely with the Bahais and meet them on their own ground and in their own manner with a brother's em brace.
All who know Abdul-Baha love him de votedly, whether or not they be acquainted with the tenets of his teaching, for, on account of the oppression of the Bahais in the Holy Land, until the present time practically no teaching has been done there. One instance of this came to lily immediate notice in the fol lowing way. Finding upon my return to Haifa from Acre that I had two days to wait for a steamer to take me on my journey, Dr. Fareed
'3
(the son of Mirza Assad'o'llah, a Bahai teacher well known in America), who had been my constant companion and interpreter while in those parts, set out with me on an ex cursion to Nazareth. A drive of several hours across the plains of Sharon and Ben Ahmed brought us to the foothills of the Lebanon Mountains, high tip in the valley of which is nestled the little town of Nazareth, the older parts of which have probably changed but little since the days of the Savior, Jesus.
During the drive, Dr. Fareed related several incidents of Bahai interest in connection with the places we were passing. He spoke in par ticular of one Sheikh Youseff, a man of wealth in lands and cattle, now deceased, who lived in those parts, and who, during the days when Baha'o'IIah was there an exile, befriended and served Him in many ways. On arriving in Nazareth, we betook ourselves to call on the governor of the town, who was a son-in-law of the late sheikh. A very steep, narrow and dirty street, flanked by high walls, brought us to the door of the governor's house, which, from without, was unattractive enough. Upon entering, however, we found ourselves in a large court through which we were conducted to the principal reception room of the house, spacious, and beautifully furnished, the win dows of which looked out over the receding terraced roofs of the neighboring houses, down the valley and on to the plain below. We were most graciously received by the governor. He and his wife spoke many times of their deep esteem and love for Abdul-Baha, and, though
'4
but little about America, and the Bahai Teaching, yet they surprised that Abdul-Baha many friends in the far
these friends should travel over
to spend ofttimes but a
evening he came to return our call, and again, the next morning before our departure, sent one of his men in case we might need some service. These kindnesses to us, because we were friends of Abdul-Baha, spoke strongly of the esteem in which he is held by those outside of his following.
The home of was entertained, l had lived Syrian houses, t several feet in vaulted ceilings, poses, while the
the Afnan* in Acre, where I was a house in whith l3aha'o'- for some years. Like many he lower story, with its walls, thickness, and high, massive, was used for mercantile pur upper floor, reached from the
street by a heavily barred door, court and steep
* Afnan is the name applied to the relatives of The Bab.
they less not have nor and
knew about at all
so
that
sea
even were
should West, land
few
hours with him. A servant was placed at our disposal to conduct us about the town to visit the many places of religious interest. Afterwards we visited the mausoleum of the late Sheikh Youseff, a beautiful marble struc ture, beneath the dome of which rested the sar cophagus of white marble overlaid with gold. Later, when we arrived at our hotel, we found a basket of fruit from the governor, and in the
'5
no
one
aba,
Thi
en
surrounded
that which while a
occupied
stone staircase, was the dwelling. This house has been purchased by an American Bahai (a lady who has spent much time in Acre), that, on account of its associations, it may always re main in Bahai hands. One room, by loggias overlooking the sea, was
had bee ccupied by Baha'o'llah,
smaller next to it, formerly
Abdul-IB was the one in which
lodged. s room, me suring, perhaps
by sixt feet, with the exception
beamed
painted
mentati
into wh
to take
C
a
ceil
m
oiL
ich
aw
by
I was twelve
of the ing the woodwork of which was arious colors was devoid of orna The walls were washed with lime had been inserted sufficient blueing ay the disagreeable glare of a large white wall surface. Its furnishing consisted of a straw matting on the floor, with a divan
along one side s covered
with a
inches
above
of an
the ho
room
of the room which wa rug; a small tea table about eighteen square, standing, perhaps, one foot the floor, completed the necessary fitting oriental apartment. In the center of use was a general reception and dining containing a table and chairs. When
more people came into my room than could be accommodated upon
brought and then tak where. Simplicity ch Oriental life, and, if and adapts himself t find himself uncomfo its customs are more
the divan, chairs were en out, when needed else aracterizes every phase of one enters into that life o the customs, he will not rtab for surely many of adapted to the conditions
there than would be transplanted Westernisms. As bedtime approached, I began mentally to
make my arrangements for the night, expecting
i6
to sleep upon the divan. However, as I was about to put this into effect, some of the friends ap peared at the door with bundles of bedding which they proceeded to arrange in the follow ing manner: A pashe-band (literally mosquito box) was hung in the center of the chamber and sustained in place by cords to the four cor ners of the room. This contrivance is about six feet long by five in width and height. It is made of loosely woven cloth which admits the passage of air. In one end is an opening en circled by a draw-string; through this aperture the mattress and bedding are first inserted; then the sleeper crawls in, drawing the string after him. Inconvenient as this may seem, it is most comfortable and is absolute proof against vermin, including some of the larger and more dangerous species, such as scorpions and spiders, with which those Eastern countries abound, the stings of which are always serious and ofttimes fatal.
When the morning and the hour came for me to leave Acre, I was quite unconscious of it, being still lost in the realms of sleep. The previous day had been as strenuous an one as Oriental conditions could have afforded; from five o'clock in the morning until eleven o'clock at night, almost without a break, I was con versing with various Believers, who had come to see me, so that when bed time came I was tired out. Abdul-Baha came to say good-bye to me about half-past seven in the morning, but, finding me still sleeping, would not allow me to be awakened, but stood guard at the door) walking up and down the narrow cor 17
ridor.
was ca Fareed the roo poking me. A Baha's and, t driven on the
Emb landed sunrise where hands
The lang been heh field teaci the much throu
A half hour passed thus, when he lied out on the loggia, which gave Dr. the watched-for opportunity to enter m and give me a necessarily vigorous through the pashe-band, which aroused half hour later I had received Abdul fatherly embrace and parting blessing, ogether with Dr. Fareed, was being through the canon-like streets of Acre way to Haifa.
arking from Haifa in the evening, I the following morning shortly after in Beirut, the chief seaport of Syria, I found a very hearty welcome at the of Bahai friends. The kindness of one
uching. He was
from Hamadan, large Israclitish
sixteen years be- America to teach
of not knowing the means, he had not
desire; nevertheless his prayers for the
of these brothers was quite to a Jewish Bahai, originally Persia, where there is a very following. He told me that fore he had wanted to go to
Cause, but on account uage, and for want of able to carry out his ad been constant in of work in the \Test iers went to America work he had long work he had really gh prayer and arnest
e
Later
and d to done desir
e
on other accomplished
do. How for America e I could only ove he had for the Bahais in which I seemed to be the tin nt. The significance of such understood at the time, but,
judge from the 1 the far West, of deserving recipie a meeting is not
after parting with such a friend, a touch of the spirit of brotherhood remains with one and
T8
then one realizes the virtue of coming into contact with virtue.
Beirut is an important educational center and a number of Bahai young men are there as stu dents. That night a meeting was held, attended mostly by these young believers, after which
supped together and repaired to Bahai, formerly of
was spent. The city
ontory projecting into
abruptly the verdure-
whose summits are
clouds. Our friend's
mt of land and from
a superb view of the shore of which
past the ancient r on toward the ehind us, towered of its many villas
and villages giving a unique beauty to the scene.
Those who visit the Orient are always im pressed by the brilliancy of its nights. Even the starlight there seems as brilliant as does the moonlight in more northern climes. To
several of us the home of Baghdad, whe proper is built the sea behind clad Lebanon usually lost to
a Persian it the night on a prom which rise Mountains view in the
house stood on a high po its terraced roof we had moonlit sea, the glittering stretched off to the south towns of Tyre and Sidon a prison city of Acre, while, b Lebanon, the twinkling lights
use an Oriental expression, I will always have with me the fragrance of the nights spent on that roof-top during various visits to Beirut. Our host is now an old man. Since the days of the First Point (The Bab) he has been an ardent and faithful believer and has spent his life in serving The Cause. Now his three sons are continuing his work and it is they who receive and serve the friends from the
'9
with them is an art. along, always aimin a fixed point which which in the end t accumulated force
much action. Often ciently accelerated to ing for direct
beginning but a certain poeti wish to impart. peculiar sense
simple. Conversation Their narratives ramble
g, though indirectly, at is at first obscure, but hey bring out with the of many pictures and the movement is not suffi please our western cray- the runs they itha
that
with
as well as the narrative. roof-top of the house Baghdad, seated pping tea from the Sons relates e early days of
even to be stis ever was sufficient to confiscated and pos
d. Under this terrible people migrated from parts, thus spreading wide. Such was the Baghdad, who, after pon them by enemies serving in a foreign conditions than before.
East and West as they pass through Beirut.
There is a poetry in Oriental hospitality, of which western seems devoid. Everything is so spontaneous and
results to see the end at nevertheless through it all c strain, which is the spirit
This leaves the listener w of being an actual part of being related and he carries away ul imp
being
ression on the
which is him a so Imagine of our about small events TheC pected have o
friend, the merchant of a boiling samovar, si glass cups, while one of which transpired in th ause those days, when of being a Beli ne s possessions
sibly one's life tyranny many their homes t The Message case of this f many troubles of The Faith, land under mo
forfeite
of our o foreign far and amily of brought u
are now
re pacific
It was in this house in Beirut that the vener
20
able teacher, Mir- Assad'o'l the friend of the American Bahais, sought refuge when he and his son, Dr. Fareed, with several other F:;• lie came overland from Persia in the winter with their precious burden, the blessed remains of The First Point, The Bab.
As is well known, after the martyrdom of The Bab in Tabriz, his body was cast out into the moat which surrounded the city. Then it was that there arose a friend who went and re covered the remains, taking it to a place of safety and swathing it in tissues of silk. After wards it was secreted in one place for a time and then in other places known oniy to the faithful, and so many years passed. A few years ago, arrangements having been made for the entombment of The Bab's remains on Mount Carmel, Mirza Assad'o'llah set out for Persia, and, returning after a most eventful journey by camel across the desert with his holy burden, which was disguised as a bale of merchandise, he reached the sei at Beirut, from whence the remainder of the journey to Carmel was made by water.
Though the steamer which I took from Beirut to Constantinople was not booked to sail until midday, yet in accordance with the Oriental custom of arriving on board a steamer hours ahead of time, I embarked in the early morning, several of the friends go ing in the bark to the steamer with me. Each of these arrived at the quay with a parting gift in his hand a steamer chair, fruit, sweets, etc., a package of Persian insect powder to
2
the Western mind a curious gift, but an article which adds much to the personal comfort of the traveler in those parts and, finally, after the party had left the ship, some one (I never knew whom) sent me by a boatman a large jar of excellent potable water which was far superior to that afforded by the ship. I men tion these details to show the extreme kindness of these friends kindness to one whom many of them had not seen before nor probably would ever see again. This is indeed the spirit I have found manifest among the Bahais everywhere.
The passage from Beirut to Constantinople was uneventful, Smyrna, where the ship stopped for a few hours, being the only in termediate port. The Bahais in Syria had advised me not to land my luggage in Constan tinople, but to continue passage by the same steamer to Odessa and from there on to Baku by rail. This was the route often taken by returning Bahai pilgrims, who dislike hav ing anything more to do with the Turkish officials than is absolutely necessary.
Going ashore at Constantinople early in the morning I made my way to the abode of the American Bahai with whom Mr. Sprague was staying. A hearty welcome, followed by a hasty meal, preceded our embarking, for our ship remained in port only a few hours. Until quite recently the Oriental and Occidental Bahais in Constantinople have been obliged to avoid meeting together on account of making trouble with the government, so during his
22
visit there Mr. Sprague had not been able to meet any of the Eastern friends.
A cold and stormy passage of forty-eight hours across the Black Sea brought us to the port and city of Odessa. Here we took rail for Baku, a long ride, but not one devoid of interest. At first the line lay over rolling fields of grain-country, which reminded us. much of our own western prairics then, as the route turned off toward the south and we neared the Caucasus, we had splendid views of its rugged and picturesque mountain ranges towering one above the other in the distance. Again changing direction, the line bore off east ward and descended into the Caspian basin, where the railroad turns to the south, follow ing down the western coast to the sea, with an expanse of water stretching off to the right, the Caucasian Mountains rising abruptly on the left.
In Baku we had little difficulty in finding some of our Bahai friends. Fortunately for us, they were ve1l known and easy to locate, for we did not speak a word of the language of the country. Here and in some other places in Southern Russia, as well as in Russian Turkestan, the Bahai movement and its fol lowers are recognized and protected by the government. In fact, here we found that to be known as Bahais facilitated travel, for our people are known to be for peace and tran quillity and are in no way associated with the many revolutionary movements which keep that country most of the time in a state of turbulence.
23
we were lodged in the house of Bahai, Ashraff Karimoff, who lived only a few doors from the building now temporarily used as the Mashrak_el_Azcar.*
of land in the heart of the quired for the building of a A building now standing in enclosure, besides serving as for the Bahais, affords lodgi Bahais and their friends are also resides a Bahai teacher, other followers, serves The ing an establishment Bahai activities in that
During our stay in Baku, we were enter Lamed several times by a Bahai, A. Mussa Nagieff, a man who has extensive oil interests in that section. On the day following our arrival we went with him to inspect his oil
wells at Bala Khaneh, not far from Baku. After spending some time among the wells we were taken to a house where a Bahai meeting Lad been arranged. This meeting was com posed chiefly of laboring men from the ad jacent wells.
In the West many people are impressed by the fact that the Bahai teaching appeals alike to people of culture on the one hand as well as to those upon the other who have not had the advantages of education, together with its responsibilities. This was even more striking in this meeting than any which I ever attended
*MashrakelAzcar means, place for mentioning God."
literally,
"The
In Baku
a
a
Quite a large lot city has been ac Mashrak-el-Azcar.
one corner of this a place of meeting ng when traveling entertained. Here who, with several Cause, thus form-
which is the center of city.
24
West. Several western travelers have written of the industries of BaJa Khaneh and have described the way in which the oil is brought to the surface by the workmen, whose scanty clothing is saturated with unrefined petroleum. From this standpoint their condi tion is not enviable and needs to be improved, but we are permitted to see another aspect of their life which might astonish people in the vyrest who to-day are striving to conciliate capital and labor. To see the capitalist and laborer side by side on equal terms in spirit in such. a meeting as we had shows the work of the Bahai Cause. Though in outward affairs there was a distinction between employer and employee, there was at the same time beneath that a fraternal relation which made their in terests as one.
On another occasion we had an interesting
elements from the north, south, east and west by the Bahai faith, for wherever it is planted it finds root and grows.
From Baku our course of travel lay east ward over the Caspian into Turkestan. The afternoon of the evening that we left Baku a largely attended feast was spread in the Mashrak-el-Azcar. Tablets were chanted and
in the
meeting with a number who came into the city greet us. The Circassia several peoples, which gi the child-like simplicity Oriental, a certain almo is characteristic of the teiesting to withess the
of Circassian peasants from the country to n is a combination of yes him, together with and gentleness of the st savage force which north It is ever in- assimilation of these
25
Mr. Sprague made an address in Persian which was translated into the language of the country for the benefit of those present. The meeting was brought somewhat abruptly to a close when one of the friends hurriedly entered to inform us that we had no time to lose in making our steamer. In almost less time than it takes to recount it the crowd had poured out into the street, where several carriages awaited us, and amid good-byes, we, with as many as the several vehicles would accommodate, were driven off rapidly toward the port.
On the quay and aboard the steamer we were met by others, the party growing as it was re inforced by groups of friends from the meet ing, who arrived at intervals. Little did we think, as we stood on the stern of the moving steamer, waving adieu to the crowd on the pier, that there would be any annoying results from this farewell demonstration.
Turkestan, which is north of Persia, west of China, south of Russia and Siberia, and east of the Caspian Sea, has comparatively recently been opened to railroad travel by the Trans Caspian line. The western extremity of this railroad is the town of Krasnovodsk, on the eastern coast of the Caspian. From here the line goes east to Eshkhabad, Merve, Samark hand and Tashkhend; then northward to Orenberg, from whence a line joins it with the Trans-Siberian railroad.
On account of the proximity of Turkestan to India the Russians guard that country jealously. It is only by special permission that any foreigner is allowed to penetrate beyond
26
the frontier. Before leaving America I tried to inform myself of these matters through the Russian embassy in Washington, from which I was able to obtain no information at all. While in Europe I applied to the American ambassa dor in St. Petersburg, asking him to procure for Mr. Sprague and me the necessary permis sion to travel as tourists in Turkestan. In reply to this I was notified by letter and by wire that the necessary permission had been granted and that while no document was sent us, the officials along the Trans-Caspian route had been advised of our coming.
On the steamer from Baku we met two brother Bahais with their families, who were traveling our way, so we consolidated into one party. On arriving at Krasnovodsk the fol lowing morning we landed, and, finding that our train did not leave until late in the afternoon, we made ourselves com fortable under the shade of some trees in a garden adjoining the station. Seated here we had lunch and later on tea. We were about to gather together our luggage for boarding the train when we were approached by a police officer accompanied by two men who de manded to see our papers. This, of course, was no more than travelers in those countries expect at any time, so we were troubled only when told that there was no permission for us fo travel in those parts and that we would be detained there until such had been received.
It was with some degree of consternation that we watched the train pulling out with our Persian friends aboard, and then we turned
27
being a watered no fresh indeed such as Theo
over us
estan, asking them allowed to continue
On the third day beginning to weary ing, the door of walked three Baha Taghi Khan, Mirza
It was about as imagination could have ed in by the sea against as only the salt wastes can be, the only verdure shrubs which had to be ed sea water there was miles Krasnovodsk was
for an ir to be.
seemed to have jurisdiction ness itself. Even under the circumstances he was all bow most gallantly with his over his heart. We were
lived, and, though us, we were at town as we chose. ired to our ambas also to the military nder whose gover of Western Turk- steps for us to be
our journey.
of our stay, when we were of the monotony of wait our room opened and in s from Eshkhabad Mirza Housein Oskoui and Mirza
us.
to survey the town about barren a place as the conceived of. Hemm mountains as barren of the Caspian basin
few trees and with condens water within uninviting ours bid ía flicer who was polite
indefinite
sojourn
most exasperating smiles and would right hand placed
lodged in a hotel where he a sharp eye was kept upon liberty to wander about the
As soon as possible we w sador in St. Petersburg and governor of Tashkhend, u norship is the government to take
Fazl'o'llah Khan. Before then we had been in telegraphic communication with the friends in Eshkhabad, and knowing of our plight these three friends had come down a run of eighteen hours to Krasnovodsk to share with us the period of waiting. They told us that the
28
Bahais in Eshkhabad had been advised of our expected arrival in their city by dispatch from Baku, and about fifty of them came a four- hours' journey down the line to meet us. There in a small station house they spent the day and night expecting us by every train.
The remainder of our time in Krasnovodsk passed comparatively quickly. On the fifth day in the afternoon a dispatch came from the military governor of the province granting the waited-for permission. It was with much hilarity that we hastily gathered our belongings together and, within the hour, were boarding the train for Eshkhabad.
Only after the affair was over did we ascer tain the real cause of our detention It seems that the police in Baku witnessed our de parture from that city, and imagining from the parting demonstration that we might be p litical agitators, telegraphed ahead to Krasno vodsk, and, though we had the necessary per mission to travel in Transcaspia, it was can celled by this dispatch. Unpleasant as this affair seemed at the time it was indeed a very good thing in the end, for the people of Krasnovodsk were impressed by the fact that two Bahais were there from America and in this way our three Oriental friends who spoke the language of the country were able to do quite a little teaching.
The route to Eshkhabad was over the desert. For the most part of the way we were in sight of the Elburz mountains on the south, which here form the northern boundary of Persia. On the following morning, drawing nearer to
29
this range, we began to distinguish, by the streaks of verdure on the mountain sides, rivu lets coming down to be absorbed by the thirsty sands of the plain. Every few miles could be seen the remains of ruined cities. In a recent tablet revealed to the Bahais of the East and of the West Abdul-Baha Mentions this country in the following terms:
"For man has two aspects one the sub limity of nature and intellectual qualities, and the other the base animality and im perfections of passion.
"If you travel through the continents and countries of the world you will see on one side the signs of ruin and destruction, and on the other the signs and monuments of civilization and construction. As to the ruin and destruction, they are the signs of contention and discord, of war and battle. But order and construction are the results of the virtues of friendliness and concord.
"If one travel in the central desert of Asia he will observe how many great and populous cities have been ruined. From the Caspian Sea to the River Oxus naught is to be seen save forlorn and deserted prairies and deserts. The Russian Railway (the Trans-Caspian R. R.) takes two days and two nights to traverse the ruined cities and destroyed villages of that desert. There was a time when that land was very populous and in the highest state of civili zation and development; science and knowledge were widespread, the arts and
30
professions established, commerce and ag riculture were in the utmost state of per fection, and civil government and politics well organized. Now, all this great region is the habitation of desolation and shelters only the nomadic Turkoman tribes and the wandering beasts of prey. The cities of that land, as Ghorgan, Tassa, Abiavard, and Shahrastan, were once famous in the world for sciences, knowledge, professions, wonders, wealth, greatness, happiness and virtue. Now no voice or murmur is to be heard in all that land save the roar of fero cious brutes, and naught is to be seen save the wandering wolves.
* .
This rum and destruction was occasions ed by the battles and wars between Iran (Persia) and Turkan, which had become different in customs and religion. Their godless leaders made public property of the blood, belongings, and the privacy of each other. This is the exposition of one instance.
"Then, when ye travel through the world and observe it, ye shall find all construct iveness and progressiveness to be signs of friendliness and love, and all destructive ness and ruin the results of hatred and en mity."
Before leaving Krasnovodsk our companions had telegraphed ahead to Eshkhabad and va rious intermediate points to announce our com ing, so at a very early hour the next morning we began to be greeted by groups of Bahais
3'
gathered at the stations along the line. The people aboard the train eyed us with no little interest, for it was uncommon to say the least to see foreigners so received. At two hours or more from Eshkhabad we were met by a dele gation of believers from that city, who brought to us the greeting of their assembly.
The climax was reached when the train fin ally pulled into the station at Eshkhabad, where three hundred and more of the friends awaited us. As we stood on the platform of the car looking down into a sea of upturned faces, with many hands stretched out towards us, a wave of something came over me which was difficult to stand up against; but then was no time to break down, so with an effort I collected my self and stepped down into the crowd. Before I could realize it, I found myself hurried through the station with several hands upon each of my arms. Outside many carriages were in waiting, and without the loss of a moment we were being driven at a seemingly dangerous rate of speed toward the Mashrak-eI-Azcar.
The Mashrak-el-Azcar of Eshkhabad the largest structure of its kind so far erected
stands in about the center of the city, with its roof and dome rising high above the surround ing houses and trees. It is visible for miles over the plain as the traveler approaches the city, and seems only more imposing than from afar when one finds himself within its enclosure. Here, in the lower loggia which surrounds the building, we were greeted in dividually by several hundred Bahais. After tea and cooling drinks had been served and
32
greetings exchanged, everything quieted down while prayers were chanted. During this serv ice all present sat in a respectful attitude, while one of the friends, the possessor of a rich and melodious voice, lifted it in chants of praise and thanksgiving. We were indeed thankful to have attained the blessing of this meeting.
The chanting over, the meeting broke up and we were then taken around the temple on a tour of inspection. Going up
to the top of the dome, the town, with its many ing country. The town the desert, water from tains being brought to through water-ways to gardens and along the
even the trees which flank the streets might be watered.
In the days of Baha'o'l Bahais to migrate to and set At that time the place was huddle of mud huts. Howe broad boulevards were laid houses were erected in place ferior ones, until now it is a perous city.
The Mashrak-el-Azcar stands in the of a garden bounded by four streets.
four corners of this enclosure are four ings. One is the Bahai School. One Mosafer-Khaneh, or travelers' house, pilgrims and travelers are lodged. One
- — ... __. — t means "City of Love."
into the building almost we had a fine view of gardens and surround- was as a green oasis in the neighboring moun the city and conducted the various parks and gutters, in order that
He advised certain tie in *Eshkhabad little more than a ver, little by little, off and substantial of the former in- modern and pros-
center In the build- is the where is for
33
the keepers, while the fourth one is to be used as a hospital. Nine radial avenues approach the temple from the several parts of the grounds, one of which, the principal approach to the building, leads from the main gateway of the grounds to the principal portal of the temple.
The temple is built on the plan of a regular polygon of nine sides. One side is occupied by the main entrance, flanked by two slender tur rets. This, the principal dooway, opens toward the direction of the Holy Land. The entire building is surrounded by. two series—one up per and one lower of loggias which open out upon the garden.
The principal feature of the interior is the rotunda beneath the dome, which latter is the dominant feature of the exterior. The rotunda is surrounded by an aisle or ambulatory. Doors give egress from the ambulatory to the lower loggia without.
The interior walls of the rotunda are treated in five distinct stories. First, a series of nine arches and piers which separate the rotunda from the ambulatory. Second, a similar treat ment with balqstrades which separate the tn-. forium gallery (which is above the ambulatory and is reached by two staircases in the loggias, placed one on either side of the main entrance) from the well of the rotunda. Third, a series of nine blank arches filled with fretwork, be tween which are escutcheons bearing The Greatest Name.* Fourth, a series of nine large
*Allaho (God is the Most Glorious).
34
arched windows. Fifth, a eye windows. Above and sunnounting this last story ispherical shell of the dome. The interior is elaborately decorated in pin ter relief work. I am under the impression that eventually it is the intention to treat the
at present. it is exterior is also that climate re e elements. The such as is corn-
of
sists quite well the ac style of the temple is mon in Persia, while certain parts reminds Mahal in India. The are massively b are of concrete impresses one b Imposing as
building, the sy
Spiritual Unity
e Bahais of the Orient, is
that which impresses the believer more than all else. It represents the voluntary heartfelt of ferings of a multitude of souls, the blending of the spirit of which is a power distinctively felt, and the temple building is as an ensign which testifies of this unity.
That which is manifested or expressed is more virile and forceful than that which is tin- manifested or unexpressed. The rearing of this temple in the East has been a great source of strength to the people there, for through thus expressing their unity the Bahais have become stronger and more united than ever before. Now in America the Bahais are arising to build
series of x8 bull s resting on a cornice rises the inner hem-
interior in in the simp being done
colors and gold, but le white stucco. The in stucco, which in
tion of th Oriental, the exterior treatment one of the famous Taj walls, which are of brick,
uilt, while the floors and dome and iron. The whole structure y its mass and strength. is the Mash rak-el-Azear as a mbol for which it stands, the of th
35
a Mashrak-el-Azcar. Who can estimate the effect which will be produced by this building? It will be the cause of great strength and unity among the believers of the Occident and, being The House of Unity open to all peoples, it will be as a haven of rest to many a soul and as a beacon to guide those who seek. This all and more, too, it will be for us of the West. Now for those faithful souls of the Orient those through whose suffering and sacrifice we in the West have received the spiritual light of this latter-day revelation those through whose labors the way has been made easy for us of the Occident a Mashrak-el-Azcar in America will be as the confirmation of their hopes and prayers for the West.
The erection of a temple in the West will strengthen the Holy Cause in the East more than anything which could happen in this country. Has not Abdul-Baha said that one of all things now to be accomplished in the West the building of the temple is the most important? Throughout the Bahai world the eyes of all are expectingly turned toward this country. Now we must show them a sign of spiritual unity and this must be the Mashrak el-Azcar.
The Bahais of Eshkhabad form a strong ele ment i the life of the place, and they are highly thought of and protected by the govern ment. One of the friends told us of the way in which about eighteen or twenty years ago
the Bahai Cause was first brought to the public notice in Eshkhabad by a martyrdom. It was the case of a learned man of some prominence:,
36
porches and ga too large for thronged it. as many as f dining with tween meals boiling and a
many
These the deed ure to try that city. matter in seven men. governor to authority to etition to the same effect was sent who granted it, and thus the pris chains to the mines of Si- one of the seven remains. instance of the growth of persecution, for from that ment not only allowed the as they chose, but it pro- wed them special favors.
we were en-
by the name
its terrace, one, but none friends who
at table with do not recall table. Be stantly kept
ices and
who met his death after receiving wounds at the hands of two assassins. two individuals had been hired to do by five Moslems, who took this meas to stop the spread of The Cause in The Russian authorities took the and condemned to death all
then lives.
petitioned the He not having
hand The Bahais spare their do this, a p to the czar, oners were beria and n Here is but The Cause time on th Bahais to tected them
sent in ow not another through e govern worship and sho
During our stay in Eshkhabad tertained in the home of a Bahai of Abbasoff. The house with
running
service
rden was a large
the number of
Sometimes we sat
orty persons, while I less than fifteen at the samovar was con
of tea,
cooling drinks was for the refreshment of the many callers.
Three days after our arrival in Eshkhabad we went up into the mountains for a few days to a resort called Feerouzay, where some of our friends had summer homes. Several of the Bahais accompanied us thither, and while there
37
we were joined by about thirty others who had gone up from the city for the occasion.
Every arrangement was made for our per sonal comfort during the drive of several hours to Feerouzay. We halted several times beside streams to rest the horses as well as to refresh ourselves by washing our faces and hands. In those Oriental countries there is much dust, so the traveler welcomes running water. In one of the carriages was a supply of ice and soda waters nothing had been forgotten. At first the route lay over a track on the sandy plain as far as the mountains, then it wound up * narrow gorge until a fertile valley high up in the mountains was reached, at the upper end of which was the town of Feerouzay.
In the Bazaar quarter of the town we were greeted by a number who had congregated there to welcome us. They were arranged in a double line on either side of the roadway as we drove past. Shortly after our arrival in the home of Mirza Mohammand Alnan, a son of the aged Ainan of Acre, where we were to be entertained, quite a party gathered for dinner, the festivity continuing late into the night.
During the drive up to Feerouzay, Mr. Sprague fell into conversation with the driver of the carriage in which he rode, and the man became much interested in the teaching. On the following day, at an early hour, he came with his family to the house to see Mr. Sprague and to hear more about The Message. Our coming had been noised about, so we met many others, also, who were desirous of knowing about the Bahai Teaching.
38
From where we were, near the frontier, we could see the mountains of Persia. It seemed strange that, upon one side of an imaginary line, our people were protected and safe, while, upon the other side, opposite conditions reigned. The Bahais are safe in Turkestan, so from time to time Bahai refugees have sought pro tection there from the persecutions in Persia. Sheikh A Akbar, one of the friends who for merly had been a MulIah (priest of Islam), told us of some of the troubles which he had encountered through preaching and teaching among his own people, until finally he had been obliged to leave his home. This man interest ed us greatly a man of commanding presence, whose finely cut features and poise of bearing bespoke the high caste Moslem with his pride and learning, and then, added to this, was the gentle influence of love which had come in to his life with his acceptance of the Bahal Faith and his trouble and sacrifices therein. A whole history was written in the lines of his face.
Another type was Sheikh Mohammed All, upon whom devolves the chanting of the pray ers and holy words in the Mashrak-el-Azcar, who has been given this service to perform on account of his vocal qualifications and devotion to The Cause. From his brilliant face, smiles and good cheer, one could hardly believe that his back and shoulders were a mass of scars from wounds inflicted as torture for The Faith at the hands of fanatical Moslems.
Everywhere we found joy upon the faces of those who had suffered the most Only once
39
do I recall encountering grief. It was upon meeting with a believer, a very old and in firm man, who wept when he greeted us, we were told that several members of his family had been martyred during the comparatively recent massacres of Bahais in Yazd.
While in Feerouzay there was a constant round of meetings and gatherings. I will make special mention of one a Bahai christening which we attended. On the day of our arrival in Eshkhabad a son was born to Aga Reza, one of the friends of Feerouzay. We were asked to name the baby. Mr. Sprague selected the name Rouh'o'llah, which gave evident satisfac tion. On the fifth day after the child's birth we all gathered at the house where a feast had been prepared. Tables were spread on a broad piazza overlooking a garden. The baby was brought out and held up for inspection, prayers and tablets were chanted, and before the re freshments were served a translation of one of t Waite's poems was also chanted.
Unfortunately, we were limited as to time and were unable to travel further into Tur kestan, where there are other Bahai centers. While in Eshkhabad we met several friends from Merve, Samarkhand and Khokhand (which latter is the extreme eastern end of Turkestan near the confines of China), and it was difficult to resist the urgent and pressing invitations to visit their cities and the Bahais there.
Our departure from Eshkhabad was as much
*One of the American Bahais.
40
of an occasion as our arrival had been, It seemed as if every person we had met while there was at the station to bid us adieu. Then, at several stations along the route of travel, we were again met by the same good friends who had welcomed us before. Three of our good Oriental brothers accompanied us from Eshk habad to Baku, where we arrived, after two nights and one day Of travel.
The two days spent in Baku, between our second arrival and our departure for Persia, passed in much the same way as had our pre vious visit. We were constantly with the friends and on the move from one meeting or entertainment to the next. Quite the same crowd escorted us again to the quay, this time there being no possibility of the authorities making trouble for us, as we were to land upon Persian not Russian soil.
In going from Russia into Persia the Bahai is struck by the difference in the outward atti tude in relation to The Cause of the Friends in those two countries. In Russia they are out spoken about the Faith, because they are pro tected, while in Persia it is often with difficulty that one is able to recognize the Bahais, be cause they dare not always manifest their real selves on account of the persecution. One in stance of this happened on board the steamer from Baku as she was entering Persian wa ters.
Before sailing we were told that there were some spies aboard and, in case we were questioned as to our business, to be careful with our replies. Consequently, when I was ap 4'
Baku, there.
haps give ata reaclii at the Name,
The contrast between the eastern em shores of the Caspian Sea is mo The former, or that of Turkestan, sterile, while the latter, or that o most luxuriantly clothed with verd steamer neared the coast the very
and south- st striking. is arid and f Persia, is ure. As the air teemed
proached by a tall sian cap and long in questioning me Baku and my dest sia, I intimated as actually telling him company. Neverth by asking if I did mentioning
Something, in my evasion him the cue I table on the ng under the same time the Bahai
young man wearing a Rus military coat, who persisted
regarding my sojourn in ination and friends in Per- plainly as possible, without so, that I did not desire his eless, he pushed the matter not know various people in certain Bahais who lived either in my reply or per- of his question, seemed to e sought. We were seated
deck of the steamer, and
table he grasped my hand, pronouncing The Greatest
greeting "AIlaho'Abha !"
My chagrin at having so sedulously tried to avoid this man was only counteracted by the pleasure of meeting him as a friend and broth er. We had supper together, followed, by a conversation which lasted late into the night. He was a student of engineering in a college in Baku and was then taking a vacation trip into Persia. Before the steamer reached En zalee, where we landed, our friend had disem barked at an intermediate port on his way into the interior.
42
with vegetation and insect life. The sea being very shallow about Enza in rough weather vessels have difficulty in makin.g the port. For tunately for us there. was no sea on, so the landing was easily accomplished.
Mirza Taghi Khan, who had accompanied us from Eshkhabad, recognized a Bahai brother in the custom-house office, where we had some formalities to attend to in entering our lug gage, but it not being advisable there to enter into salutations and conversation with this friend, we simply exchanged fraternal and tin dvrstanding glances and passed on.
From Enzalee we reembarked for Peere Ba zaar en route for Resht a trip of three or four hours. The boat was rowed and poled across the lagoons, which here begin near the sea coast, extending inland for some distance. After a time we entered an inlet, whereupon the crew descended to a towpath md towed the craft to the bazaar, where we landed.
I wish I might adequately describe this boaf ride. It was so typical of Persia that nothing could have formed a better introduction to that country and to her people. The absolute sim plicity of the mode of transportation, with the absence of all hustle and bustle, made it seem quite like a pleasure excursion where time was no object whatever.
On the stern of the boat was constructed a rude framework upon which was stretched an awning under which we made ourselves com fortable, reclining on cushions. The lagoon was bordered by thickets of reeds and rushes, and at several points we saw buffaloes feeding
43
huddles a first country timber i pie are work, which and rushes, mud. On marshes the above the ground, beneath the house.
We were rather
allowing a circulation of air
es, each of whom our many articles ir way up a steep which housed the a heated discus- carriage driver a
assem
was made, so
the drive toward the miles distant. ersia one sees almost of the people of the turn and between the tea houses, where the of tea, their national
on rushes, their great black hairless backs pro truding from the. water, giving them the ap pearance of amphibious monsters.
As we entered the inlet we passed close to of huts, where we were able to obtain glimpse of the domestic life of the people. Here in the lowlands, where s plenty, the houses of the poorer peo built of a light unhewn timber frame- is thatched and walled with reeds and, in some cases, plastered with account of the humidity of the floor is usually raised several feet
rudely awakened from this
dreamlike atmosphere of simple life and poetic travel by the confusion which accompanied our
landin score
g at Peere Bazaar. of gesticulating nativ
Surrounded by a
laid ahold of at least one of of impedimenta, we made oi bank to a large building shops of the Bazaar. After sion of some length with a discussion in which each member of the bled crowd took part a bargain we mounted and began city of Resht, only a few
On the highroads of P every aspect of the life lower classes. At every turns are tchi khanehs or people gather to partake
beverage. These builclin
gs always have large
44
some cases, even is formed o moved, give the house the porch. Against the wall, doorway, is the sakkou, rests the samovar or tea often quite an elaborate sembling a church altar w and shelves, upon which
road,
like, which form the neces of the establishment,
seat extending about the walls of in the Persian fashion, with their up under them, the customers dr tea, and smoking their large
Here often a minstrel is heard lay to an accompaniment played ar-like instrument, while ofttimes story-tellers or travelers enter tain the crowd with tales and anecdotes. The Persian is undoubtedly the most social of all men, and this characteristic is the first and last impressed upon the traveler as he journeys through the country, for he observes it in every grade of society.
On arriving in Resht, we drove to the house of one of the Bahai friends. The master of the house was not at home, but after we ex plained to the servants that we had come for a visit they made us very welcome, serving a lunch, after which, according to the custom of the country, we were put to bed for an after noon nap. After sleeping for an hour or more I awoke, and, looking out into the next room,
doorways opening toward the
use re
and, in
the whole side of the ho f movable shutters, which, when
character of a great
usually opposite the a stand upon which urn. This stand is affair, somewhat re ith its series of steps are displayed lamps,
tea utensils and the sary culinary outfit a broad, 1 the room sit feet drawn drinking th water pipes singing his upon a guit professional
45
saw there our host quietly seated waiting for us to awake. Though I had never met this good friend I recognized him from having seen his photograph, and on going out into the next room he greeted me with the hospitable and customary embrace of the Orient.
Our thought had been to stay at Resht only over night, but when we found ourselves in the hands of the friends there it was difficult to break away. After much talking they de cided to allow us to continue our journey at the expiration of three days.
In the late afternoon of the day we arrived, we began to receive calls from friends who had been notified of our arrival. On account of the persecution of our people in Resht not more than nineteen or twenty gathered in the the house at any one time, but there was a constant coming and going until late in the night. Everyone was anxious to hear the latest news from Acre and also of the work in the West. Mr. Sprague was kept quite busy talking. Not speaking Persian, my conversa tion was limited to the few who spoke English and French. However, this was not without its advantages, for it gave me an opportunity for absenting many things which otherwise might have escaped me.
After dinner, which was served between To and it o'clock at night, we mounted to a bal cony overlooking the neighbooring houses and gardens, where coffee was served. Here we sat talking of The Cause until a late hour. The stillness of the nights in the Orient is im pressive. Here we were in the heart of a large
46
city, yet save for the occasional cry of a night watchman, or a singer chanting, or the tinkling of the bells of a caravan passing in the dis tance there was nothing to break the silence This, with the brilliancy of the firmament and the refreshing breezes of the night in contrast with the parching heat of the day, makes the night the time when the Oriental people really live.
Under such
civilization.
It was in Persia that the wise men of old read from the heavens of the approaching birth of Jesus, the Christ, before they went westward to welcome and pay homage to Him, The Messiah. It was from the Orient that Christ's message went forth to the western world the fruits of the spirit of which we in the West are now enjoying for the most enlightened civilization of the present day is the fruit of the spiritual awakening of man through the Christ.
But now another note has sounded through out the world. Baha'o'llah, the Promised One of all religions, has appeared in order to unite all peoples of all faiths, and it was with His
climatic conditions it is not sur prising that th.e Oriental has turned his atten tion from things material to things immaterial, from the practical to the poetic, and from the outer world of nature to the inner world of the spirit. Things spiritual have always had their first fruition and growth in the Orient, and from there they have found their way to the West, where they have become the moving factor in our lives and the basis of our
47
followers that we East. Surely no distant lands ever as we did at times the wealthy, and at of mud dwellings al where with fact that on another but restrict the desire to sh
With the strongest of meet but for had always written and the Oriental is made of the wrong s they usually
lived and traveled in the western travelers in those had so warm a reception entertained in the places of other times in the simplest ong the wayside; yet every- heartfelt hospit
le to serve a ba tea, in no way of the meeting others.
the tie
Though
w moment friends.
uch about but scant
se of the because of
education of the West, reactionary effect upon reases the natural abyss Orient and calls forth ics of both. But how
hose who go to the brotherhood to give They find friends d many a friendly the roadside and the uniting spirit greatest degree of
the same ewasab a cup of warmth are with Bahais
ality. The nquet, and seemed to
nor their
of faith is the two Bahais may s it is as if they Westerners have the treachery of y if any mention Westerners see aracter, because plunder not to to the East to
S.
fe
n
m ile asa of Ea
tie a bee said ,wh him ide go
friend stern East they
the and
ch
to
go
expen possible
to the court for most times enrich themselves at Oriental. This is easy the superior practical but, in turn, it has its both peoples, for it inc between Occident and the worst characterisf
different is all this with t East in the Bahai spit-it of and to win and not to take. in every city and hamlet, an door open to them along caravan route, for, through of the Bahai teaching, the
48
fraternity and friendship exists among its fol lowers. Through this spiritual power the highest and most noble characteristics of man's soul are developed and become his ruling instincts.
The three days spent in Resht passed quickly. Here we had our first glimpse of the home life of the people of Persia, for we were with the friends all the time, going from one home to the next, for a meal here or for tea there. We always met small groups of people, wisdom not permitting the holding of large gatherings on account of the opposition and trouble brought about by the unbelievers. I recall one day when we had gathered, nineteen in number, in the upper part of a dwelling. The friend who chanted the prayers and holy verses used caution in modulating his voice, so that it might not carry to the street below, lest it might attract the attention of unfriendly ears. During this meeting a commotion took place in the Street beneath the windows of the room in which we sat. This was caused by an altercation between some passers-by. For a moment every one in the chamber held his breath, until one of the men, cautiously ap proaching a window, satisfied himself that there was no danger. I will never forget this picture. The assembled Believers, exchanging glances which bespoke experiences of past troubles and persecutions, while at the far end of the room stood the friend cautiously peer ing out into the street through the partially closed shutter.
49
big the troubles Musseirnans, yet at them strong in fai the most dire cala in the The Cause. some friends in the streets this should answered me Mr. Sprague dentals, for w have a certain they were ready the great army of passionately said, sentiment of the the sincerity o demonstrated by lingly and with family and life
piece of made the ease and of relay along the for time eight or
Much suffering and trouble has made the Persian Bahais vigilant and cautious in evad
heaped upon them by the the same time it has made th and ready to withstand mity and even martyrdom Once I remonstrated with st their being seen walking Mr. Sprague and me, lest trouble, whereupon one
again
with cause
that no bodily harm could befall and me because we horn even the fanatic respect, while, as for
at all times to b Bahai martyrs. the speaker but Persian Bahais
were Occi al Moslems themselves, e added to Though dis voiced the in general,
f which has often been the vast numbers who wil joy have sacrificed property,
in the path of Baha.
Teheran
is about 225 miles from Resht by the carriage road. This road, built and main tained by Russian enterprise, is an excellent engineering, and in recent years has trip to the capital one of comparative comfort A well organized system stations affords changes of horses route, so if the traveler be pressed the entire trip may be made in forty- fifty hours. However, this traveling
day and night without rest
is fatiguing,
sowe
so
Khan and I Several of to a point changed fro had come to four horses, destination.
changed and journey.
For some rice fields o Caspian Sea until driven down from
Taghi
set out from Resht for Teheran. the good friends accompanied us without the city limits, where we m the light carriage in which we a heavy traveling coach drawn by which was to convey us to our Here parting greetings were ex we started on our cross-country
distance our way led through the f the lowlands which border the and where the sea once extended back by alluvial deposits brought the mountains. Then, winding tip amid the urz I Eange. hours to to refresh the post-
found
hills o thre
uso and
s)al
points we were ad been notified a friend was ye not remain for shortly before, did not have
found it better to travel by night, resting in the middle of the day when the sun was highest.
Accordingly, Mr. Sprague,
Mirza
0
f
a broad valley, we heavily wooded foot Making stops every change horses gave ourselves with tea khanehs (post-house
C
p
urselves the Elb or four portunity
food at ong the ro
. At various friends who h
place could dined
dwe next meal.
At one that we we had sible, an until the hours Ia we had
ute.
met by Bahai of our coming. ry disappointed dinner, but, as was impos to remain rise, a few ost-khaneh, an inn a friend,
it
time To our surp ter, while stopping at a p a phone message from
couple of hours ahead saying that our
with whom we were not able to dine, had ar
5'
by a young took us mt one room. no more he ing in the pamphlets Washington, thither and other treasu
message Sent us what we might all might be in In one place
ranged by phone that we should be his guests there that evening, even though he could not be there to least with us. The object of the
from the inn like for dinner readiness when I well remembe
man who had lived
o his little house, co Simple as w
arty welcom
depths of
and Bahai
which ha
were being
res relating
was to inquire in order that we arrived.
r we were met in Shiraz. He
nsisting of but as this abode we had e anywhere. Search- a chest he produced greetings printed in d found their way preserved along with to The Cause. Here Ut, as our time was decline a very pressing the night. Our young
we remained limited, we f
for twe
tea, b must
at not seeing more of us, in the coach and jour- in order that the visit
invitation to remain for friend, disappointed
took the fourth place neyed along with us might be prolonged.
Shortly before our arrival in Persian terri tory, the country had been greatly stirred by the bombardment of the Parliament in Te heran by the troops of the Shah, and of the massacre and imprisonment of a number of the members of that unfortunate body. This action upon the part of the Imperial party was the outcome of a long disagreement between the Shah and the ConstitutionalisIs a political matter which for some time had agitated the country.
As we journeyed onward, our friend spoke
52
at some length of these political troubles which were occupying the attention of every one, at the same time saying that the Bahais had re mained neutral in the hope of helping the con dition of the country along the lines of peace and arbitration rather than by strifc and blood shed. Later on he informed us that several Constitutionalist fugitives, on their way from Teheran to exile in Europe, were hourly ex pected to pass over that portion of the route; so we kept an eye ahead, hoping to obtain a glimpse of the expected party.
By this time the road had entered between high and barren mountains with scarcely a vestige of vegetation, for we were leaving be hind us the fertile lowlands and ascending the mountains which form the northern buttress of the great central plateau of Persia. To add to the dismalness of the scene night was clos ing in and gusts of wind mingled with rain and flashes of lightning made the falling dark ness more intense, while peals of distant thun der broke the monotony Of the clatter of the horses' hoofs and the rumble of the coach.
More and more the mountain sides en croached upon the valley, until the road en tered a deep gorge in the rocks. To one side towered an almost perpendicular cliff; on the other descended a chasm, in the depths of which dashed a mountain torrent on its tur bulent way to the lands below. While passing through this defile, the pent-up fury of the storm broke with all its force. Suddenly a shout was heard ahead, and we peered out into the gloom just in time to see three coaches
53
in quick succession. With sh of lightnhg that revealed and haggard faces of its o e fugitives in their flight. were gone, and the noise lost in the distance.
a few moments a bridge over an abrupt turn iii the road brou a broad upland valley, where ceased, and, shortly, we drew house of a Bahai friend in the
ugile, to find a welcome awaiting us.
took refuge, and in an upper chamber ourselves about a table, upon which read a tempting meal.
After supper we sat talking listening to some music, which had lived in Shiraz, made guitar. Being tired, both M
fell asleep. Awaking about three hours later, we found the sky nerfectly clear and the world bathed in the brilliant moonlight of the East. So, parting with our good host and the young man, who had accompanied us thither, we set out again upon our journey, refreshed in body and soul by the hospitality and the affectionate meeting with these Bahai brothers.
The ancient city of Khazvin is the only place of importance between Resht and Teheran. It being one of the principal Bahai centers of Persia, we planned to tarry there in order to meet the Believers. About four hours from the city, we stopped at a post-khaneh to sleep
pass a ious of th
•they was
In
and into had the
the first came to us the anx ccupants two In an instant of the coaches
the ravine ght us out the storm up before village of
Ma
we
ed
sp
Here
seat was
for a time and our friend, who upon a Persian
r. Sprague and I
54
in the e court
guests.
the newcomers from a window, I ght men as they descended from two
Suddenly I recognized one of the certain physician of Khazvin, with d corresponded and whose features from having seen several photo- him. These friends, hearing of our hastily joined themselves into a
to meet us. The
Our friends had
as soon as the
ys of delicious
fruits were we spent an feasting.
While during very recent years, the Bahais have been comparatively tranquil in Khazvin, nevertheless, even now, great care has to be observed and every precaution is taken against giving people the slightest ground to criticise or make trouble for the Believers. Accordingly, two hours before dusk, we all set out for the city, entering the gates under cover of the night. After wending our way through many narrow and tortuous streets, some lined with shops and brilliantly lighted, others flanked by high walls and dark, we found ourselves at the house of the Bahai doctor.
A small, low, and heavily-barred doorway,
we nity port
we
of
d
knew that on arrival in a we would be much feted and unity for repose.
had settled ourselves carriages entering th the arrival of other
and rest, for Bahai commu have little op
As soon as
inn, the sound
yard announce Surveying
counted ci carriages.
number, a whom I ha I recalled graphs of approach,
party, coming over the road greeting was a hearty one. not come empty handed, for, first salutations were over, tra
produced, tea was served, and thus hour or more in conversation and
55
the day, sun was
To the are the caller a nothing journey we awo our arrival friends ass chagrin, we not able to As in other tinuous rot planned for first afternoo the house of
other Enter
ments from faces
purpos soon as
is quite as at sunset, forth on a 'clock in the
o'clock the
in Khazvin, we embled to see us, learned that others remain, had gone places, our s md of visi
piercing a massive brick wall, formed the street the house. On entering, we found n a small court yard lighted by s, about which were placed plants in tubs and pots. Behind this, to ened a large court containing a gar
entrance to ourselves i many lamp and shrubs one side, op den, while, upon the trance to the house. halting for a few mo to remove the dust
wash our hands and placed there for the the guest room. As
side, was the en ing the latter, and in an antechamber, our clothing and at a small fountain e, we were taken to we arrived, friends groups, coming and
began
to call in small
going until dinner was served, which, accord ing to the custom of the place, was just before bed time. After dinner we went to our room and, tired by travel and the social events of
we fell asleep, not quite high. Oriental, alihours
awaking until the of the twenty-four
same. He t sunrise as
of starting
at I or 20
Ice about 8
apt to have a and he thinks cross-country night. When morning after found several while to our
had come while we
and, slept.
tay here was one con ts, something being
every hour of the day.
On our
n we were entertained at tea at a certain Bahai merchant. This
meeting was esque in its s description of it.
Escorted by some of through narrow streets, house of the merchant a wall of sun-dried an
I will never forget the first impression of
ground of d midst of this forty or mo their many never to be
Men of
after many The Cause
with a mass of the air flowers open filled glass,
so typically Persian and pictur etting, that I must give a brief
the friends, we went
until we came to the A simple doorway in d burnt bricks opened
on a flight of steps, which de
level of the outer courtyard
Crossing this court, in the cent
a basin of water surrounded
were taken by an exterior s
upper floor of the house, and,
an antechamber, we entered
the friends awaited us.
sçended to the of the house. er of which was by flowers, we taircase to the passing through the room where
a large room long table, a
this low cob was placed window with in looking stretche
meeting. Imagine paneled ceiling, a r with its fruits
filled with a about in
s, the transo tricate fretw down upon d off toward
while e of
broad
ch were colored
and viands fragranc
profusion; ms of whi ork and a series the coun
of gardens that try, with a back istant mountains; then, in the beautiful and harmonious scene,
re Bahais, seated about the room in colored robes it was a picture forgotten.
all ages were there. Some who, years of hardship and service in were entering into the evening
of this life, while others, young and in full vigor of manhood, were in the prime of their
57
time of service. 1 well remember two father and son the older man, blind and feeble bi body, yet with a keen mind and an enthusiastic soul, while the son, strong in body, was eyes and limbs for his father. Thus they had traveled together and taught in many towns and provinces and were at that time teaching in Khazvin.
We were given seats at the head of the table, and, after the usual service of chanting, feast ing commenced with an interchange of ideas and items of Bahai interest, both Occidental and Oriental. After the feast we took a stroll through the gardens, and at dusk, bidding adieu to our host and his guests, we returned to the house of the good hakim (physician).
Even in the earliest days of The Holy Cause Khazvin was an important center. Kurratu'l Ayn, to whom The l3ab gave the title Jenab-i Tahira (Her Highness, the Most Pure), was of Khazvin. Her fame as a poetess, as a heroine and a servant in the days of The Bab, and as a martyr in The Cause, is well known amongst the Bahai friends. It is in the garden of her house in Khazvin that in recent years the Believers have constructed a Mashrak-el Azcar.
One evening at dusk we were conducted thither. Following one of our friends, we were soon lost in the labyrinth of streets of the old part of the city. Going through the ancient bazaars, with their high vaulted roofs, dimly lighted here and there by lanterns, one could easily imagine himself in a great subterranean world. Carefully we picked our way along,
the early days of the life of Kurratu Mashrak-eI-Azcar, w been illuminated by fountains and along an alley of trees and the ancient dwelling the veiled figure of doorway, lights on making her clearly surrounding darkness. of our venerable host, here, and she awaited u come and of greeting. parted slightly her chador gave her the greetings of the Bahai assemblies of to convey the same to Khazvin. Then, taking we ascended to the Street,
fearful of dropping into an open cistern or water-way possible to achieve in such places until we at last descended from the street into the ancient court yard of the home of Kurratu'l-'Ayn. From here we were taken into the garden, at the farther end of which stood the Mashrak-el-Azcar. Here, under the portico, many friends were grouped to meet us. Then we entered the building, where the usual entertainment of chanting and a collation was accorded us.
Within the precincts of the temple lived a very old believer, one of the original followers of The Bah—who entertained us by recount ing many interesting incidents connected with
the movement and with '1 On leaving the e found the garden had lamps, placed about the the walks. Passing along shrubs, which led toward we saw in the distance a wo standing in the
either side of the portal
visible in contrast with the
This was the daughter
the teacher who lived s with a word of wel As she spoke she or veil. We, in turn, the maid servants of the West, asking her the women Bahais of leave of the Believers, and, with the assist-
59
ance of several friends provided with lanterns, we returned to the house of the hospitable doctor.
In contrast with this meeting in the Mash rak-el-Azcar, I will describe a visit we made the following morning to one of the govern ment prisons. A party of several of us, after walking through a most beautiful public gár den, laid off with avenues of stately cypress trees, stopped before some government build ings used to house a garrison. Near these buildings was the city prison, and, as we stood, there proceeded from the open doorway a pro cession of twelve or fifteen prisoners. They were marching in single file, each with a heavy iron collar about his neck, by which he was at tached to a long chain, which clanked dolefully, as the line moved slowly across the court yard.
When near us the prisoners halted long enough for us to give them some coins for food. They began telling us their various stories. One had been imprisoned for stealing, another for murder, and so it ran. Later on we went into the dungeon, where other pris oners were chained by the neck to a series of irons in the floor, which kept them lying at full length. I go into these painful details to give an idea of a Persian prison, for in these prisons many Bahais have languished and from them gone forth to martyrdom.
Shortly before sunset one evening we set out for Teheran. Several carriages conveyed a
6o
party of Believers to a certain caravanserai, an hour or more distant from the city, where we all alighted for tea and to bid farewell to one another. One of the friends in Teheran, being notified from Resht of our approach to the capital, had sent a trusted household servant to meet us on the way and render us any pos sible service. This man joined us in Khazvin, and though we had no special need of him he journeyed onward with us.
It was between 12 and i o'clock that night, when we made our first stop at the house of a hitherto unknown friend. We were greeted with the usual hospitality, to which by this time we had become so accustomed that we had almost ceased to wonder at it. It was thought best to remain here for two or three hours for rest before continuing the journey. So, after supper had been served, we were shown to a room, where, removing our outer clothing, we laid ourselves down on divans, expecting to get a little sleep.
Mr. Sprague was remarking that Bahai con ditions in Persia were hardly what he had an ticipated, for here we were traveling onward to the capital without difficulty, when only a few years previous Bahai blood had flowed in the very places through which we were pass ing. He had scarcely finished speaking when, from the court yard below our windows, we heard a murmur of voices which grew in intensity until it became a chorus of loud ha rangues. Though I knew only a few words of Persian, yet I understood from these few and from the angry tones, that some people
ô
outside and the din subsided, though for an hour or more there were spasmodic outbursts of rage coming from various directions out of the darkness.
It seems that a company of soldiers was traveling that way and instead of quartering themselves, as was usual, in the caravanseral, which was near, they preferred the shelter of the yard and garden of our friend, where, against his protests, they proceeded to install themselves. At this juncture we arrived, and
the light of the portico of the house saw him greet us. Some of the soldiers
that he was a Bahai, and this fact, to- hospitable reception, gave suf for such a demonstration. Be- o'clock we took our leave. By quieted down and the agitators, blankets, were sleeping on the the court, while a chorus of that broke the peace and har mony of the night.
The road from Khazvin to Teheran tra rses desolate tracts of arid land, intersected long intervals by streams, the banks of ch arc flanked by gardens. In the desert presence of water gives rise to the most
62
were cursing the Bahai Cause and its adher ents and particularly our host. In fact his voice we could distinguish from time to time expostulating with the crowd. After a few moments he came to our doo: to express his regret at the occurrence and to assure us that all was well and that there was no prospect of violence. Again, shortly, we heard his voice
under they
knew gether with our ficient grounds tween 3 and 4 this time all had rolled in their pavement of snores was all
ye
at
whi
the
luxuriant vegetation, but where absent the bleaching bones of beasts of burden, strew ing the highways, with here and there a great hungry looking vulture, accentuate the contrast between garden and desert and life and death. This same condition we sensed in the soul life of the people whom we met. Entering various Bahai houses along the route for a meal here and a glass of tea there, we were quickened by the kindness and devo tion of these friends. They outwardly mani fested the life of the indwelling spirit of their faith. On the other hand, we were constantly reminded of the fanaticism and spiritual dark ness of the many whom we passed on the high ways men of various religions and castes, who considered us and all, save those of their own cult, as unclean dogs. Surely, if possible, their stare would have killed, but, as it was, it was only painful. There is no fanaticism so intense as that encountered in the• Orient.
One of the prophecies relative to this day is that "the desert shall rejoice and blossom as the rose." Indeed we saw the fulfilment of this marvelous verse, for many of the people, who were kindest to us, had, only a compara tively short time before, been as desert land, untouched by the spirit. Of one man, par ticularly kind to us, we asked how long he had been a Bahai, thinking that he had ac quired his illumination through years of ser vice. To our question he replied, "Thirty-one days," speaking as if it had been a lifetime in itself, and, verily, so it had, for he had been born again. As in the desert the presence of
63
water gives rise to most luxuriant vegeta tion, so it is in the desert of men's souls, for, when the life-giving water of the Spirit of God enters, it gives rise to the fruits of the King dom.
While crossing a parched plane four or five hours from Teheran, our carriage broke down. After some little difficulty, the damage was sufficiently repaired to allow us to proceed at a moderate pace for a mile or more, until we arrived at a post-khaneh kept by a friend, who, when we explained that we would be obliged to remain there for several hours for repairs, quite frankly showed his delight at the pros pect of a visit. This man was from Esphahan, where our people have suffered much at the hands of the fanatical Moslems, as well as by the oppression of unscrupulous rulers.
In speaking of the Bahais in Persia, and their relations with those in the \Vest, this believer struck at the keynote, for he said that in his country the Bahais had suffered such long and strenuous persecution and trouble, that they had become tired and heartsick, and needed the association and moral support of the friends of the West. How often we thought of the reverse conditions existing n the West, where we are in need of this spirit, which the Oriental Bahais have received through suffering. The West needs what the East has to give it and the East needs what the West has to give it. This interchange can take place only as the two come together in love and harmony. In the past Occidentals
64
have gone to the Orient and Orientals to the Occident, but because of an absence of basic unity religious unity no lasting good has come to either. Now how different is this when, in the Bahai Cause, Easterners go West and Westerners go East, where they meet on the common ground of faith, for then each returns to his own ccuntry and people, re freshed in soul and buoyant with a force and knowledge, which help him to face his prob lems and demonstrate to him the conquering power of spiritual oneness, which is the mis sion of the Bahai Cause.
Taking leave of this friend from Esphahan, we proceeded eastward toward Teheran. About two hours before sunset, we sighted the domes and minarets of the capital, rich in color, ris ing from the floor of the plain against a back ground of the snow-clad E As we neared the city, we saw ahead several carriages driv ing rapidly toward us. These were at first distinguishable only by the clouds of dust which enveloped them. Then, as they drew quite near to us, we distinguished the oc cupants eagerly looking out ahead. Instinct ively we knew these to be Bahais, and, almost before the drivers could rein in the horses, they had descended and surrounded our car riage.
After an affectionate welcome, we found our selves laden with flowers which these friends had brought to us. To the traveler of the desert nothing is more refreshing than to bury
his face amid fragrant flowers. After traveling for hours under a parching sun, where there is not a vestige of vegetation, when finally he finds himself within the enclosure of a garden, he really appreciates vegetable life and the fragrance of the flowers. So it is also with us humans, when we meet souls who are alive in the Lord, for their presence is an oasis in the desert of the world and contact with them is soul refreshing and invigorating. Thus we found the flowers, brought us, symbolic of the spiritual aspect of our meeting with the Te heran friends.
Before reaching the city gates, we halted before the entrance of a large and beautiful garden, where we were met by more friends. Entering the garden and passing along beside waterways and avenues of trees and shrubs, we came to an open summer pavilion, where tea and other refreshments were served us.
After the sacred chants, which characterize all reunions of our people in the East, we con versed for a time, delivering messages and letters brought with us from friends in other places, as well as giving accounts of the work in the West. —Shortly before sunset, the party entered the city, several of the friends accom panying us to the quarters where it bad been arranged that we should be installed.
As I have already stated, just before our entering on Persian soil, there had been revolu tion and bloodshed in Teheran. By the time, however, that we reached the capital all was tranquil. Had it not been for the ruins and the debris of the buildings, which had been cannon 66
aded, there would have been no visible traces of the recent troubles. In fact, we found the Bahais there in the utmost peace and happiness. They had taken no
the day and respect of the government, joying unusual privileges. revolution no gatherings o allowed by the police, yet sions the Bahais meetings numberi and more souls.
high governmental positions irit of assurance and safety assembly, which was quite ything hitheto known there The Cause. Now many of heran are kno as Bahais
seem to embarrass them, many years ago it would have This freedom in the capital be- ogress in The Cause throughout the country in the near future, because, being the life and center of all things in Persia, the influence of Teheran is widely felt throughout the various cities and provinces.
I will not attempt to give a detailed description of the series of breakfasts, excur sions, receptions and dinners which we at tended in Teheran, but I will make mention of a few meetings and entertainments, which were typical of the many accorded us. For tunately, a most tranquil spirit of repose char acterizes Bahai entertainments in the East, otherwise we had not been able to keep up
67
part in the political troubles of were in the good esteem and
and now were en- On account of the f any nature were upon several occa permission to hold ny as four hundred of the Bahais had
obtained ng as ma Several
sp
the
an.
of
Te
not
been appointed to and a general characterized different from in the history the friends in and it does whereas not meant death. spoke rapid pr
the round as we did, day and night, from week to week. \'Vhile the spiritual feat ure of all meetings was the more important, nevertheless one's waterial wants were never disregarded, for every possible thing was done for our bodily comfort. The social events of the day usually began at sunrise, when tea was served, after which visits were usually re ceived until 9 or 1 o'clock, when we would start forth to the house, where we happened to be lunching that day, or, possibly, on some excursion about the city. Lunch was usually served at noon and was followed by a nap, from which we would be aroused for tea, be fore going to a late afternoon gathering of Believers, invariably held in some garden
few if any houses being large enough to ac commodate these large afternoon reunions. The evenings were always spent at the house of some friend, where we dined, the dinner being served about x o'clock.
During my stay in Teheran, there was fear of an uprising of the people, so no one was allowed to circulate in the streets after i o'clock at night without a special permit. Several times we had this permission through the kind efforts of friends, while on various other occasions we spent the night at the house where we dined, sleeping usually out of doors, as is the summer custom of the Persians.
At the home of one of the friends of The Cause there was a subterranean bath built for the most part below the level of a garden. This was placed at our disposal during our sojourn there. A flight of steps led from the
68
ground level down to the vaulted chambers of the bath, which were floored with slabs of marble, while the walls, up to a certain height, were set with rare old tiles. The bath in the
an Israelite just delegated by the de, to make out
entertainments, the appointed I will never and unselfish was with us,
the time and constantly doing r to make everything as agree-
able and as comfortable as possible. Had I traveled to Teheran to meet him only, I should have considered my time well spent and ii valuable lesson learned. Lessons in brotherly devotion one can see exemplified in the lives of these eastern brothers, for they have suf fered for The Cause until friendship and de votion have become dominant characteristics.
the many who men, sons of a who, together
years, suffer
of the later
69
East is quite a hot and cold wat and it is invariabi and conversation bathing here the rival in Teheran, garden, where a awaited us, and
lengthy process with its er douches and massaging, y followed by refreshments and often a nap. After morning following our ar we went into a neighboring
number of our friends regaled with sherbet.
were
One of our good brothers, graduated in medicine, was assembly to serve us as gui a schedule of and to see that places at the sc cease to marvel service of this practically, all all in his powe
meetings and
we arrived at heduied times. at the devotion young man. He
Among two young and poet, but twelve during one
entertained us were noted Bahai teacher with another son of ed a martyr's death persecutions in Te
heran. For several years their bodies lay in a commOn grave, where they had been flung by their executioners. After matters had be- come more tranquil for the Bahais, in the night, and with the greatest difficulty, their remains were removed and given a befitting entombment.
When we were told of this matter, we asked that we might visit the tomb of these two martyrs. Consequently, the following morning the younger son came and escorted us thither. In the center of a beautiful garden, at some distance from the city, stood the mausoleum. It consisted of a nine-sided chamber, about twenty-five feet in diameter, enclosed by mas sive walls. Beneath the floor were the two tombs. The building was surrounded by a portico and colonnade. Three flights of steps ascended from the ground to the floor of the portico, while three doors gave access to the interior. Nine avenues diverged from the building to various parts of the garden, while canals of water intersected it in various direc tions.
Entering the mausoleum, our friend chanted a tablet and prayer written by our teacher, Abdul-Baha, specially to be read when the Bahais gather here. The chanting over, we remained for a few moments in silent prayer before withdrawing to the garden. I wish I might adequately describe the impression pro duced by the visit to this shrine. We were in a way brought closer than before to the suf ferings and heroic sacrifices of the Persian
70
Bahais, through which the Holy Cause grew and expanded until now it encircles the earth. We in the \'Vest little realize the debt of grati tude we owe to the East for the holy teaching which now is given to us so freely, and which we accept while seated at our ease, for it came to us only after it had attained its growth in the Orient, under the fire of the most savage persecutions
The spirit of the friends, who suffered so in
no room left in his soul for harboring enmity for those through whom his troubles came.
case, which was we heard of
our people, much as a vored of an- persecutors.
of the Per- than all else a chain is
Persia, is the soul. our young his father as he walk who killed were perm for it, and
indeed an inspiration and food for During the return drive to the city, friend spoke of the martyrdom oi and brother and told us that, often ed in the streets, he passed the man them, yet, so happy is he that they Itteci to serve the religion by dying so strong in his own faith, there is
I mention this one specific but one of many. On all sides the troubles and persecutions of but not once did we hear so suggestion of anything which sa tagonism or hatred toward the This and the unity and solidarity sian Bahais impressed me more in Persia. The strength of measured by
lInks. And sembly of Be by the body
the strength of its individual this is likewise true in the as lievers. The work accomplished is in proportion to the strength
and steadfastness of its individual members.
7
Since have ag women course women was but ing even a few many men upon form at least an
In Persia, as the conventions sion of worn Bahai teachi quite rid of held in the way man's i The Bahais power for women. In
so generally is in every e his slave. all in their training of Abdul the necessity then goes on necessary it and trained s aretobe and trainers ttitude of the is quite that in the West, al conditions they are not
returning to America, many people ked me about the condition of Bahai in Persia. Compared with our inter- with men, our intercourse with the
slight; nevertheless, from see- women and by talking with the subject, we were able to idea of existing conditions. in most Oriental countries, of society demand the secIu Through the influence of the
en.
ngs, we found our people to be that mental attitude Orient that woman nferior and should b in Persia are doing the education and
a recent tablet from
regarding education, he writes of of the education of boys, and to demonstrate how much more is that girls should be educated than boys, because they the girl the mothers and the educators of the coming generation. The a Bahais in Persia toward women held by most enlightened people but, on account of existing soci and the persecution of our people,
yet able to carry out their ideas and aspira tions.
Even after visiting Persia it is quite impos sible to comprehend the hatred of the people toward the Bahais. Fanatical by nature and creed-bound, the Oriental hates everything out-
72
side of his own realm of thought, and when he sees his own people adopting new ideas his wrath is often uncontrollable and he goes forth to kill. By this reign of ignorance some of the difficulties under which the Bahai reformers are working can he imagined. In the early days of the movement, with all the enthusiasm of newly awakened souls, the Believers sought with fervor to bring about quick changes in Persia. They taught un guardedly and raised so much antagonism that The Cause was all but exterminated by the massacres which ensued. Such troubles characterized the days of The First Point
The Bab and also the beginning of the ministry of Baha'o'liah. However, under the guidance of the latter, the Bahais learned to be cautious and careful in their religious work until now, avoiding disagreement and friction with the opposers, they are peacefully and steadily working and changing ignorance into knowledge and hatred into love.
Under these improving conditions the women are naturally becoming more and more, as we term it in the West, "emancipated." The work is difficult and slow, but it is being acconiplished, and here is an open door to us Bahais of the West, a practical way of service, for through our co-operation our brothers and sisters in the East will be helped and encouraged, and through unity with us they will learn many things. On the other hand we will ourselves receive more abun dantly than we give. The East has much to give to the West, as well as the West to the
73
interesting characters, Persia, was a certain Teheran, a woman of women. For some time rking assidiously for the Cause among women,
and general upliftment
one meets people who, after long Europe, have ac cleas, which they I Persian origin, one thing nor the r Oriental ideas to conditions in
the products of a evolved under foreign con ork that
only
thin be at-
of the he was
d ideas, evolved
She was therefore,
One whom khanum ability a past she spread and for of her
East. This interchange will take place as the two come together in spiritual unity and n practical service one to the other.
of the most
we met in
(lady) of
s a leader of
had been wo
of the Bahai
the education
sex.
In Persia
or brief sojourns in western cumulated certain western i have mingled with those o producing a mixture neither other, neither Occidental no which are not applicable Persia, because they are foreign civilization ditions.
Now, what was most interesting in the w ing of the J3ahai movement in Persia was it was solving present-day problems in the practical way, namely, by workin.g from Wi out by quickening the soul, from which is gotten the desire for knowledge and for taking the advantages which go therewith.
This was exemplified in the work khanum whom I have mentioned. S an enlightened soul, holding advance not gleaned from foreign sources, but through personal work and service.
wholly a product of Persia, and was,
74
able to understand and to minister unto the needs of those among whom she labored.
I must describe a meeting which we attended at the hcuse of the khanum mentioned, for it gave us a glimpse of Oriental life and condi tions hitherto not seen. Our hostess had for some time past discarded her veil and with her husband received men in her house and garden, yet she was obliged, as she explained to us, to veil in the streets on account of at tracting too much attention. On this par ticular afternoon she was holding two recep tions at once. Twenty or more of us men were in one room, while in an adjoining room, sep arated from us by a curtain, was a party of twelve or fifteen ladies, our hostess slipping quietly from one room to the other, serving and entertaining her guests.
After the chanting of tablets, Mr. Sprague and I were asked to tell the ladies in the next room something about their sisters in the West, which we did to the best cf our ability, Mr. Sprague speaking in Persian, while my words were translated and spoken through the curtain to the listeners on the other side. Our hostess, it seemed, had hoped that the women in the next room would, on that day, follow her example and unveil. As we spoke of the free doui and independence and higher education of woman in the West, the khanum became more and more enthusiastic, until, finally, she went toward the doorway and, drawing the curtain,.. began speaking very earnestly to the people in the next room. I could not understand her words, but so stirring was the tone of her
75
voice, that I caught the spirit of what she
saying. She was forth and lift their rare opportunity to the West were there, seeing women's face several minutes her effect, for the women
their
The men made place for the ladies by re treating to the other side of the room, while the newcomers found seats. When the women had arisen situation, they were quite was the men who were ill
bit the men
their embarrassment passed, the women seemed by little the veils were until all were prac who was seated near leave, whereupon all of aifrighted birds
was
calling to her sisters to come veils, saying that it was a
do so then, for we from who were accustomed to
the expiration of had the desired
and drawing aside veils with one accord entered the room.
s. At words arose
to the
it. Then it In fact, their for even I b dared to take
Sherbets
ved and the
equal to at ease. tagious, scarcely opposite.
were ser Bit by
embarrassment was con egan to be uneasy and a good look at the faces and other refreshments chanting continued.
gained their ease, but, as
to lose courage. Little drawn over their faces, tically veiled. Then one the door moved as if to arose and like a flock fluttered cm seem to one ventionalities,
fr the room. Curious as this may accustomed to western con- yet it showed that these Bahai women were awake to the advantages of the western women, as well as to their own dis advantage. I was particularly impressed by the possibilities for work among the women 9f Persia by the Bahai women of the west. The eagerness with which these women listened
76
in various cities in ginning of a great our western as sters of the East. e way will he
go to those
physicians,
mplish can-
One very interesting morning was spent ; visiting one of the leading boys' schools in Teheran. On account of the attitude of the Moslems, this institution is not known gener ally as a Bahai school. However, it is in reality in the hands of the Bahais. From the directors down through the teachers and students the majority were of our faith. We were taken around through the various class rooms,
to our account of western life in itself showed that the time was ripe and that they were anxious and waiting to be taught.
As we were leaving the house, the khanum took from her neck an interesting necklace of mother of pearl and silver, a gift to her from a princess of the royal household, and handed it to me, saying that it was for the Bahai women in America, and with it went the love and greeting of the Bahai maid servants in Teheran. On my return to America, I en trusted this souvenir to the care of Mrs. Is bella D. Brittingham, who has already organ ized a system of correspondence between some of the meetings of Bahai women in America with gatherings
Persia. This is work for the
of women but the be
women of semblies to do among thei Through correspondence opened for western worn distant parts as teachers, and what they will be able not be estimated.
rsi
th
en
nu
to
to rses, acco
77
where over two hundred boys were engaged
for he was er I left Te— commenced,
working. I understand that Persia teachers of English the Bahais. Undoubtedly, the way will be open for
Bahais from the West to go to the East to fill these positions. This is a good field for work in The Cause, because the people there are greatly helped and strengthened by intercourse the western Babais.
One Saturday afternoon, about an hour before sunset, we were conducted through the bazaars to the Jewish quarter to the house of a certain doctor, where a hundred and more of Israel itish IBahais were gathered to
During the walk thither, we pas Bahai interest, namely, the house
B was born on May 23, 1844, upon which The Bab declared H eikd of a street one can see a story arcade, behind which is which our great teacher first sa the world. This house was not we gazed upon it from without for a moments and then passed on.
Although there are no lines of distinction whatever between the Bahais, yet, in places where persecution exists, those previously of
78
in reciting travels, M for some much plea teacher of glad to talc heran, his
and study. Before starting on our
r. Sprague had planned to remain time in Teheran, ED he was very sed when told that they needed a English in this school, e the work. Shortly aft duties as teacher there
where he now is in other parts of are needed among in the near future
welcome us. sed a place of where Abdul the same day imseif. At the small second- the room in w the light of open to US, SO
few
the same faith
ing to heran weekly the city Jewish chiefly present
for generations wande nations of the world. brethren in the West, retained their ancient of the prophecies of t look for the Messiah the whole world. T ticularly open to the
there were also
d Zoroastrians.
w which we in
the Jews have
centuries, and 1 type and
have lived
ring amongst the various Like their orthodox
the Jews in Persia have faith in the fulfillment
heir scriptures, and they and the regeneration of his has made them par-
Message,
meet
together,
not
wish-
attract too much attention. In Te there are between twenty and thirty meetings held in various quarters of so that all may easily participate. The meeting which I mention was composed of Jewish Believers, but
Christians, Moslems an
In Persia there is a type of Je the West seldom see. There lived in their communities for consequently have kept their origina and spirit far more than those who
Bahai and in
places there are whole communities of them who have accepted the faith. Haniadan is the chief center of Jewish Bahais in Persia. Here they have their own schools and are carrying on other active and progressive works.
At the Jewish meeting I mentioned, several of the older men in long robes and turbans spoke, welcoming us and expressing their joy at uniting spiritually with us in accepting Baha'o'llah as the promised latter-day Messiah, through whose teaching they now accept the Christ whom their forefathers rejected. This meeting was one of the most memorable of our travels. The reunion over, a dinner was served,
79
after which we mounted to a terraced Here mats, rugs, cushions and bedding been spread, and it was not long before had made himself comfortable for the I lay awake for some time looking up stars and thinking over the significance evening's gathering. This was the be of the time when all peoples, Jew and will be united in His Kingdom.
The first large meeting of Bahais which we attended iii Teheran was a Zoroastrian or Parsee reunion. This was held in a garden belonging to a friend of The Cause a garden which was the most beautiful I visited while in Persia. Several artificial lakes, surrounded and separated by forest trees, vistas extending off toward the north, affording views of the distant mountains, with series of avenues and walks, flanked by water-ways and flower beds, formed a beautiful setting for the two palaces and several pavilions which were in the midst of the garden. The place of
under the broad portico of the two palaces, which was original much beloved and unfortunate (who died by the assassin's Minister to the late Mozaffe The pavement of the portico while chairs
the guests, ot on the rugs. ing was the welcome to
the friends the whole assembly joining in the refrain. Several of the friends present spoke
roof.
had
each night.
at the of that ginning Gentile,
meeting Was srnafler of the ly built by the Atabok-Azarn hand), Prime r-Ed-Din- Shah. was carpeted,
were placed about for some of hers sitting down Persian fashion One of the features of the meet- chanthig of an original poem of us which was written by one of
8o
to us regarding the Zoroastrian prophecies which were fulfilled in the coming of The Bab and Baha'o'llah, and explained that in the Zoroastrian teaching the final unity of all peo pie was taught and that now the Parsees were accepting the Bahai teaching as that which their people had long hoped to realize the uniting of all men in the brotherhood of The Kingdom.
On still another like occasion, in the after noon, we met in another garden, where a large number of Moslem Bahais were gathered to greet us. Because of the crowd all could not be accommodated in any one place, so they were grouped in various parts of the garden, thus forming several centers. As the twilight fell, lamps were placed about the fountains and along the walks, and then the chanting began. We sat near a basin of water about which were grouped many men, soldiers from the Shah's cassaque guard, in their red uniforms, while their officers blue, together with men wearing robes of many and varied colors. These and the lights with their reflection in the water, and the natural beauty of the place, with the distant strains of chanting, which reached our ears alternately from the various groups of friends scattered throughout the garden, made an impression which will long remain with me.
Here among the Moslem Bahais we heard the same story of how they believed because of their own prophecies which foretold the coming of the Lord in these latter days and the establishment of His Kingdom. In many
Sr
ways they expresed their at having us with than. that mote of the joy realized, when those of brought together in this uniting of those who had same I aitft. In the east, of the various religions cordially, the contrast is we see them uniting in fraternizing as members
joy and satisfaction One remarked to mc of the kingdom was different faiths were
Cause, than by the previously held the where the devotees hate one another so indeed striking when the Bahai Cause and of one family.
a hospital an in sia is much in need.
th ours in the West, but, considering it of the country, it cal standard of hy These friends are ities, as do all those of inert humanity
their work is gain- in momentum. They, hand of the western
hysician working a
One of the friends who entertained us, a Jewish doctor, together with another Jewish physician, is running a dispensary and hospital in Teheran. One morning we went there ior a visit. A cheerful court yard with its foun tain and flowers, from which opened the various rooms of the building, with their ac commodation for twenty-eight patients, formed the necessary elements of
stitution of which Per this hospital wi
very primitive, the conditions beyond the 10 appointments.
der great clifficu
lift the masses
Nevertheless,
Comparing it seemed along with was far, far giene in its laboring tin who try to in the East
ing in proportion and too, need the helping friends. A Bahai woman p
with them could accomplish much, both of
82
spiritual as well as a could reach the women the people by ways not men of the profession, an example her influence as far-reaching.
After
of the
thing is
a great
of that
posits a
must be
all must
selves.
must fir
wealthy
capitals
but that
necessary
be within
To the y
Oriental
nietropoli
is not calculated after years of natural charm acquired the re fall away from and at the same western countries.
The salvation of Persia all peoples be worked out has great possibilities, and th education of her Sons and
83
Is
on
le.
of
ean
he
many, their aving
They
people life in
physical nature. She and the inner life of open in the East o d through service and
an educator would be
the work of ministering to the health people in Persia, the most important the teaching of industries.
for
field
country.
ndin
deve
be
n
There is
industrial work in all parts Persia is rich in mineral de other natural resources. These loped, and for the best good of developed by the people them- order for them to do so they e taught. Now the sons of the from rsia to the various
I
stb
0
g P
of Europe for educational purposes, is not practical nor sufficient. It that special and advanced educati the reach of the mass of the peop outh brought up in the simplicity surroundings life in an Europ s is filled with temptations which
to withstand. Thus schooling abroad, los and simplicity, without al virtues of the West. their own country and time are not fitted for
e
h
must like that of from within. She rough the practical daughters she will
lift herself to her ancient prosperity and place among the great nations of the world. Now her vital moral forces are spent, corruption, oppression and laxity of morals hold despotic sway over her people, keeping them down to the earth. Her predominating religion, that of Islam, once so powerful a factor for the bet terment of the Orient, has lost its power as a religion and now nothing of it remains save creed, dogma and fanaticism. The only thing which can rejuvenate Persia and save her is a spiritual uplift that shall quicken the soul of her people, infusing into them that force needed to redeem it.
In Persia the Bahais are laying the founda tion of this great national uplift, but now they are at a point where they need the co-opera tion of the Bahais of the West. The more we in the West correspond with our brothers in the Orient, the more we go there to travel and to live and work among them, the more we will be helping them in their great task of bettering humanity.
At last the day appointed for me to take leave of Mr. Sprague and the other friends arrived. I was loath to turn westward, but my vacation was limited, and, as Abdul-Baha, in Acre, had asked me to return to see him on my way home I felt I must be off. A:
early hour I was taken with my luggage to the garden without the city, where we had been entertained on the day of our arrival. Here the day was spent in one continuous re 84
ception, for almost every one whom we had met in Teheran, numbering hundreds, joined the gathering at some time during the pro tracted festivities. At noon we all walked to one end of tile garden, where the ground was covered with rugs, upon which was spread in Persian fashion cloths laden with food and flowers. Sitting about on the ground we lunched, and then we had a nap under the shelter of a summer house, followed by tea and more feasting. Shortly before dusk, we parted with all save about twenty of our friends, who accompanied us into the city to the near-by house of a Bahai, where we spent the evening in conversation, dining at the usual hour of i o'clock.
Mirza Taghi Khan, our constant companion since the Krasnovodsk affair, was now return ing to Eshk abad, which was fortunate for me, for our ways lay together again from Teheran to Baku. A little after midnight our car riage was announced, and, with the assistance of many hands, we were soon settled therein with our articles of luggage about us, and, after many adieus, we left this little group of friends standing in the flickering torchlight looking after us as the carriage rolled away.
A few minutes brought us to the Khazvin gate, where with some difficulty our coachman aroused the sleepy turnkey, who, staggering to his feet, unlocked and opened the ponderous city gates, which, with a rattling of chains and a clanking of bars closed on us as we drove forth into the night. Another starry night it was, too. Far off in the west hung low upon
we the
Oil t city.
it not wepa riage This
were same
gate, azvin,
V
I
to
while the sail was lock that with the enty turnpike and low ott. The why we same day.
the horizon a brilliant planet which seemed as a guiding star, indicating, as of old, the direc tion of the Holy Land.
The down journey from Teheran to Resht was quite the same in character as had been
greeted by the hospitable way.
the up journey, for we same friends and in the The drive was broken oniy
spent two days and a nig doctor. Hearing of our he road as before and e
This time we were in being wise for us t rted just without the entering by one time while in Kh
at Khazvin, where ht with our friend, coming, he met us scorted us into the open carriages and o be seen together city walls, his car- ours by another. I had the oppor
tunity of
visiting
the Bahai school, where about
fifty young boys were pci-vision of instructors spoke French fluently
preter for
the su teachers
as inter-
studying under One of these
and he acted he isit.
o thirty-six
i Resht, whe
An
brought arrived steamer booked night.
friends
unb
us
the
by
to
Aft
we
hours re we
me during t roken ride from Khazvi middle of the morning, which we expected to leave Enzalee at 10.30 o'c er discussing the situation decided to drive the tw Reslit to Enzalee over a the marshes from the p comprehend both in the
miles from
road, which traverses lands separating Resht Believers could not should arrive and leave
and it
was with some
4iffievlty that we begged
86
off from remaining three days until the sailing of the next steamer.
Accordingly, after an unavoidable delay, we set out. The fufther we drove the came the road, until, finally, the ho hardly draw the carriage, the wheels were half way up to their hubs in loose earth. Thus so much time was we did not reach Enzalee until the had sailed. The oniy thing to do w turn to Resin. Leaving at midnight all night, arriving at Resht at dayb was our third night in
the mosquitoes and i which rolled in from cries of jackals, wit
escorted us to Enzalee and saw us safely on board the steamer for Baku.
On the quay in Balm, we were met by several friends, who had been notified of our coming. Remaining here but a few hours, I parted with my faithful friend and traveling companion, Mirza Taghi Khan, and, bidding good-bye to the other friends, traveled west ward by rail through Caucasia to Tiflis and to Batum on the Black Sea. In Batum I spent three very pleasant days with Believers. Here I was joined by a young man from Te 87
worse be rses could of which sand and lost that steamer
as to it-
we drove
reak. It
a carriage, and between nsects, a drenching fog the sea, and the dismal
h which the forests
abounded, we had a night of it. In Resht, in stead of being dismayed at our plight, our friends rejoiced at the prospect of a continued visit, and in the end I was not at all sorry either for the experience, for we had three more very pleasant days in Persia. On the third day, in good season, three of our friends
heran, whom I had met during my first visit to Khazvin, at which time he was on his way to Resht and Baku. We had hoped to meet at some point along the line of travel between Persia and Acre, for we were both bound for the Holy Land. Boarding a steamer we touched along the northern ports of Armenia, arriving at Constantinople at the end of four days.
While I was in Persia, the news reached us that a constitutional form of government had been declared in Turkey. Everywhere the Bahais were enthusiastic over this change, for they knew that, with the passing of the old regime of despotism, the troubles which had for so many years harassed our leader, Abdul-Baha, would be at an end. On arriving in Constantinople I found great changes taking place. My former visits there had given me a decided dislike for the place. The corruptness of all branches of the gov ernment made it impossible to transact any business without bribery. The general corrup tion of the country was apparent at every turn. This was particularly noticeable in the atti tude and bearing of the people. Spied upon, maltreated, and oppressed, they were con strained, fearful, and suspicious. Now, how ever, all seemed quite different. The people were light-hearted and free, singing songs of liberty and praising the constitution. News papers and printed matter, hitherto subject to confiscation were free to all. There seemed to be an entire change in the very character and soul of the people. During our stay of
88
two days in Constantinople, we met freely with the Oriental Bahais there, they no longer fearing trouble, since the constitution gave the people religious freedom.
From Constantinople, my Persian friend and I took ship for Smyrna, where we made a brief stay, again sailing by a vessel which landed us in Beirut. The nearer we ap proached Acre, the more elated we found our friends. In Syria the changes brought about by the constitution seemed greater than those in Turkey, but probably this was only ap parent to us because there we had more vital interests than at the capital. The officials, who had oppressed Abdul-Baha and his people, were no longer in power. Some had fled, barely escaping with their lives; others dis appeared, while yet others were in prison. The oppressors had been dealt with as they had dealt with others.
The joy of the J3ahais was a pleasure to see especially that of the older men, who had survived years of hardship and oppression in The Cause. It was here in Beirut, that we first learned of Abdul-Baha's freedom, for, with the going into force of the constitution, all of the political prisoners throughout the realm were liberated, and just before our ar rival in the country lie had been officially notified of his freedom.
After a visit of four days with the friends in Beirut, we embarked for Haifa. On arrival there, instead of having to await for favorable conditions under which to enter Acre, as had always been necessary in the past, we drove
89
from the quay directly to the house of Abdul Baha, where we were most graciously received. Although this was not my first visit to Acre, yet it was the first time that I had seen any thing to mention of the city. I went about as a sight-seer. Wearing a tarboosh, with several Oriental friends, I even penetrated into the precincts of the mosque On another occasion a number of us took a stroll over the plain of Acre, visiting the cemeteries near the city, where are the tombs of Abdul-Baha's mother, brother, and many of the original Bahai exiles who came to that country in captivity with Baha'o'l
One night Dr. Fareed took me to the pil grims' house in Acre, where the Oriental friends are usually e A long walk through dark streets, flanked with high build ings, and so narrow they seemed like crevices in the crust of the earth, brought us to an old caravanserai on the side of the city opposite to that where Abdul-Baha lived, in the upper part of this building, with windows and balconies overlooking the sea and Mount Carmel in the distance, are the rooms where the pilgrims are lodged and where several of the Bahai men live. Here we met Hadji Mirza H.eyder A who spent twelve years in exile for his faith in Khartoum, until freed when the English, under Gordon, entered the city. He is now well along in years and, though feeble in body, is spiritually young and active. When asked about his sufferings in The Cause, he was not very communicative,
90
of his
but later on he told periences.
Abdul-Baha was, as might have been ex pected, happy because of the freedom and liberty of tile people. As for himself, personally, one did not feel that the change made very much difference one way or another. He seemed removed from the pos sibility of being hampered by calamity or up lifted by fortune.
word "impress" in connection with him. impression is something which is imp upon one from without. His influence that of one personality upon another. T contact with him the soul responds, is ened and refreshed by his spirit of lo mility, service to humanity, and all kindred virtues. This soul-quickening produces its regenerating effect upon the acter and soul of the individual working from within outward.
Each time I have gone to Acre I have naturally carried with me a conception or a each time I
mental picture of Abdul-Baha, and
have been obliged to lay this aside in orthr
to find a larger and higher one. He has re
mained unchanged, while my vision has been
a changing and growing one. Surely, if one
were to go to him twenty times, each time he
would appear different from the times before.
It is, therefore, better not to cling to precon
ceived ideas, for unless these all be laid aside
me some
cx
Many people have Baha impressed me.
asked me how Abdul I should hardly use the
An
rinteci is not h rough quick ye, hu other
then
char-
9'
the spirit cannot enter and evolve within us and shape us anew.
Abdul-Baha is a physician, who is healing the spiritual diseases of man. He sees and under stands all conditions of the soul and gives to each just what that soul needs. His teaching is simplicity itself. The gospel oi love he makes very real through living the life of God's servant among men. His words and ex planations are so simple that oftentimes people may at first feel a pang of disappointment, when they may have expected abtruse theories and explanations, but, when they begin to realize the force of the spirit which character izes Abdul-Baha's life, then they see the real power of his teaching, realizing how much greater is this than philosophizing.
Abdul-Balia teaches that it is through mani festing the joy and giving forth the love of The Kingdom that the Bahais vi11 attract hungry souls and be able to lead them to The Kingdom. We should be fearless and enthusi astic as he is. We must not think of ourselves nor consider our feelings nor our welfare be fore that of serving the Lord. We should not be constrained, but manifest to all, frankly and freely, the love of God which we have in our hearts. The more of this love we give forth, the more of it will be ours to give. There should be no holding back: we must actively serve the Lord in every phase of life, for service is the necessary adjunct of belief and faith, for without works these latter are as naught.
92
Abclul-Baha sends his greeting and love to
In reply to a ques of Justice, he said was not yet estab nt there were only es but that in time
tral convocation all parts of the Justice, svill con— function of the administrative; it s and unity, pass moment in The g acceptable be— that he himself Justice, yet he er the Believers wodd subscribe
because of his desire to pro-
mote harmony, not that he is subject to the followers.
The day that I left Acre for the West the friends had planned an out-of-door feast in the
Abdul-Baha's life is essentially one of serv
ice. His mission here is to teach Only in following in his path of dai service to those about us will we strong in spirit and fitted to act as of the Lord. %\Te must at a1 times actions, for our words when ha spiritual actions will not lack force produce spiritual results in the souls who hear them.
us this. iy loving
become stewards
increase cked by but will of those
the Bahais
in the West
the House of Justice the prese riling bodi
tion regarding that the House lisheci; that for local Baliai gove
we would have a great cen composed of members from world. This, the vene at stated ti House of Ju ice, will, in the
se
st
Hon of mes. The is purely of onenes matters of bein said
spirit
upon united
action
Abdul
and decide Cause, its fore God. was not under the House of
furthermore said that whatev agreed upon unanimously he to, but this was
93
garden of El—Rizwan, which is not far without the city. After parting with Abdul-Baha and receiving his blessing, D. Fatted and I drove to the tomb of Baha'o'l so sacred to his followers, which is at Bebji, near Acre. En tering the court of the tomb, we remained for some moments, while a tablet was chanted; then, entering the tomb chamber, we knelt in silent prayer.
From Behji we drove to the garden of El-Rizwan, where a large number of the Bahais of the vicinity were assembled. After taking tea and other light rcfreshments with these friends, seated under the mulberry trees on the terrace beside the rIver, where BaIa'o' llah spent so much time, we had a parting word, a prayer chanted, and many good-byes. Here I left the young man from Teheran, who had been my traveling companion for the three weeks past. He had indeed been a friend and devotion itself, and here I learned another lesson not taught by word but through ex ample.
Laden with messages of love and greeting to the friends in the West, I started for Haifa, where I arrived just in time to catch an even ing steamer for Port Said. From Port Said I went on to Paris, via Messba and Marseilles, where I spent five days with the Believers. Here I met with our well—known friend, M. Ahmed Yazdi, of Port Said, with whom I went to London, where we spent five days with the friends before going to Oxford, where Mrs. Stannard and Miss Rosenberg, both of the London Assembly, were attending a congress
94
for tile comparative study of religion. Miss Rosenberg represented the Bahai movement at this convocation with a paper which was well receivea.
Parting with M. Yazdi, and sailing from Liverpool, I landed in Quebec, and after brief visits with the Bahais in Montreal and New York found myself back again in Washington after an absence of almost six months.
The Persian Bahais have those very ele ments of spiritual virtue which we in this country need. There is a devotion and a fra ternity amongst them which is most beautiful. This is needed in the West. During my trip through the East, I had such a wealth of de votion and brotherly affection poured out upon me that I could actually see and feel its effect. It had refreshed my very soul and quite changed my attitude toward people in general.
This spirit of Bahai love, so intense in Persia, softens and strengthens one's nature. It makes the strong stronger, the weak more firm and steadfast, and it rehnes man and makes him more susceptible and penetrable to the good and less susceptible and im penetrable to evil. It gives the believer the power to enter into the lives of others and to impart to them the desire to know the truth and the power to arise in service. This is that which we all need in greater abundance, s that which Abdul-Baha is giving to us, and it is that which we must attain through follow ing in his path of service to God and man kind.
FINIS.
Information regarding the teachings, the work, and the publication.s of the Bahai Cause, together with copies of this pamphlet, singly or in quantities for distribution, will be fur nished upon application to one of the follow ing centers:
THE BA ASSEMBLY OF CHICAGO,
P. 0. Box 283, Chicago, IlL
TUE BAU ASSEMBLY OF NEw YORK,
266 West 58th St., New York City.
THE BAHAT ASSEMBLY OF WASHINGION,
roraØ Washington, D. C.
UIUUIK1IFIi4 [
ill
The Carnahan Press.
Ill
DI